{"id":13181,"date":"2017-10-17T07:33:32","date_gmt":"2017-10-17T11:33:32","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/?p=13181"},"modified":"2017-12-30T18:46:36","modified_gmt":"2017-12-30T23:46:36","slug":"hebron-holy-city-in-the-west-bank","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/?p=13181","title":{"rendered":"Hebron, Holy City in the West Bank"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Tuesday &#8211; October 17, 2017<\/p>\n<p>I woke up early at 5:45, showered, and went downstairs to breakfast at the Manger Square Hotel in Bethlehem. \u00a0The large room reminded me of a &#8220;church hall social.&#8221; \u00a0There were long tables neatly set in rows with noisy smiling pilgrims milling around, talking, and eating. \u00a0Sunrise view of Bethlehem from my hotel room:<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/IMG_3535.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13182\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/IMG_3535.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Soon we were on our way to the West Bank city of Hebron, one of the four Holy Cities of the Jewish faith, along with Jerusalem, Tiberius, and Tsfat (Safed) because of its association with Abraham. \u00a0Hebron, means <em>&#8220;friend&#8221; <\/em>in Hebrew, \u00a0and is translated to <em>Al-Khalil<\/em> or &#8220;friend of God&#8221; in Arabic. \u00a0Hebron is an ancient city with its history reaching back 5,000 years. \u00a0Today, Hebron\u00a0is prosperous and thriving with a population of about 250,000 people. \u00a0It&#8217;s the largest city and the commercial capital of the West Bank.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13183\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/IMG_3544.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"322\" height=\"400\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The sign in the photo above reminded me of the division of the West Bank into three &#8220;administrative areas.&#8221; \u00a0Area A is exclusively administered by the Palestinian Authority; Area B is administered by both the Palestinian Authority and Israel; Area C &#8211; which contains Israeli settlements &#8211; is administered by Israel. \u00a0The sign informed us that we were entering Area A.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9431.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13187\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9431.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"311\" height=\"400\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Our first stop was the Hebron Glass &amp; Ceramic factory owned and operated by the same family since 1890. \u00a0The city is famous throughout Israel and Palestine for ceramics and glassblowing, among other trades.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9452.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13191\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9452.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"278\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>After we watched the glassblowers at work, we continued to an archaeological site called <em>Bir Haram Al-Rama (Mamre)\u00a0<\/em>which was first excavated in the 1920s. \u00a0It is believed to be the site where Abraham received three angels announcing the future birth of his son Issac. \u00a0It might also have been a resting place for Joseph and Mary on their way to Egypt.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13193\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9476.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"267\" \/><\/p>\n<p>King Herod the Great built an impressive complex on the site during the Roman period. \u00a0A century later, the site became one of the main market places in Palestine. \u00a0By 614 AD, a monastery was built here. \u00a0A roofed cistern with stone basins is visible in one corner of the site.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9478.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13194\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9478.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"267\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>The happy sounds of school boys playing soccer in a playground behind a wall, echoed across the archeological site and reminded me of the present. \u00a0I wondered what the boys thought about the site, since it was part of their daily experiences. \u00a0What is history, after all? \u00a0History is supposed to inform, support, and enrich the present. \u00a0(?)<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9491.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13197\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9491.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"267\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>The Old City of Hebron was declared a World Heritage site by UNESCO in July 2017. \u00a0Given its geographic location at historic crossroads in the center of Palestine, Hebron\/al-Khalil was a major center of trade and culture throughout history. \u00a0What better place to see commercial enterprise than <em>The Souq <\/em>in the Old City?<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9504-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13210\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9504-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"267\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>We walked through the <em>Souq Eskafiya\u00a0<\/em>in the Old City, which means &#8220;Cobbler&#8217;s Market&#8221; named for the shoe industry which flourished here for many decades. \u00a0Unfortunately, the souq was mainly closed. \u00a0It was sad to see so many shops boarded up. \u00a0One of the shop keepers who spoke English described tensions with Israeli troops posted nearby. \u00a0I imagine living there is stressful for everyone.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13199\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9489.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"267\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Checkpoints, security fences, and heavy secure turnstiles are a way of life. \u00a0A small community of a few hundred Zionists settlers, driven by their faith and the importance of not abandoning the burial site of their patriarch, live above the market. \u00a0Walking down the quiet street indicated discord between two communities.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13201\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9508.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"282\" height=\"400\" \/><\/p>\n<p>We walked through a metal detector and numerous heavy-duty turnstiles to arrive at our destination: Abraham&#8217;s Mosque.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13202\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9513.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"267\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The building that houses the Tomb of the Patriarchs is divided into two parts to serve Jewish and Muslim worshippers. \u00a0The tombs are located in a holy site under a Crusader church whose foundation walls are made of &#8220;Herod&#8217;s Stones.&#8221; \u00a0The stones have decorative carved borders and were quarried during King Herod&#8217;s reign. \u00a0We saw the same 2,000 year old stones at the Western Wall in Jerusalem.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9514.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13204\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9514.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"267\" height=\"400\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>We passed through the guarded entry of <em>Al-Haram al-Ibrahimi<\/em> (Abraham&#8217;s Mosque) and climbed the stairs to the main door.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9524.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13205\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9524.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"267\" height=\"400\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Non-Muslim women have to cover-up in order to enter the mosque so were given blue cloaks. \u00a0We all looked pretty funny.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/IMG_3557.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13206\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/IMG_3557.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"317\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>This is the fourth holiest site in Islam and the second holiest site in Palestine. \u00a0The Prophet Abraham resided in Hebron about 4,000 years ago. \u00a0He chose the city as a burial place for himself and his wife Sarah, his son Isaac with his wife Rebecca, and his grandson Jacob with his wife Leah. \u00a0They are also considered the Patriarchs and Matriarchs of the Jewish people, which is the reason the building is divided in half with a mosque on one side and a synagogue on the other.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13207\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9570.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"267\" \/><\/p>\n<p>According to tradition, a cave and adjoining field were purchased by Abraham as a burial plot. \u00a0The Cave of the Patriarchs is located beneath the building complex which houses the mosque and synagogue. \u00a0Four cenotaphs (empty tombs) are visible to worshippers and the general public. \u00a0Below is a photo of the stone canopy above the visible entrance to the caves, which are not accessible.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13213\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9549.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"265\" height=\"400\" \/><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9538.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13214\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9538.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"267\" height=\"400\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>We left the mosque and walked around the building to the entrance of the synagogue. \u00a0Jacob&#8217;s and Leah&#8217;s tombs are located on this side.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9575.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13215\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9575.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"266\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>We saw the other side of Abraham&#8217;s Tomb (actually empty) and a lovely library.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9605.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13216\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9605.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"267\" height=\"400\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9608.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13217\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9608.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"267\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>We walked through another section of the\u00a0<i>souq <\/i>which seemed more active.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13218\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9616.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"293\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-13219\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9629.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"271\" \/><\/p>\n<p>As we left the Old City, I noticed graffiti on a wall:<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9614.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13221\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9614.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"298\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>We had a tasty lunch at a restaurant in Hebron called Dome of the Rock which had a beaded model of the monument in Jerusalem. \u00a0Then we drove out of the city into the desert to the home of a Bedouin family.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/HBSR4552.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13222\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/HBSR4552.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"278\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/IMG_3576.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13223\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/IMG_3576.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"291\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>The family had been resettled in cinder-block houses. \u00a0The boys in the extended family met with us; some were brothers, others were cousins. \u00a0They shyly practiced their English skills and a couple of the younger boys sang songs in English. One of the mothers joined us for a short time.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/IMG_3580.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13224\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/IMG_3580.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"280\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/IMG_3581.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13225\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/IMG_3581.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>&#8220;And now for something entirely different&#8230;.&#8221; as Monty Python used to say, we drove to one of the Israeli settlements in the West Bank named\u00a0<i>Efrat, \u00a0<\/i>which\u00a0was named after the biblical place <em>Ephrath. \u00a0<\/em>The settlement was established in 1983 and currently has a population of about 10,000 people.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13226\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9671.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"284\" \/><br \/>\nWe joined a large group from Grand Circle Tours and walked up the steep hill to one of the synagogues. \u00a0An American-born man from Pennsylvania described his experiences as a long-time resident of the settlement. \u00a0He said a majority of residents are Americans.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13227\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9673.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"224\" \/><\/p>\n<p>This was a typical house which we passed on our climb up the hill:<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9676.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13228\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9676.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"280\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Unfortunately, he was defensive and arrogant when asked questions about Palestinian lands and settling on the West Bank. \u00a0He spoke of entitlement.<\/p>\n<p>My head was full of inconsistencies, conflicts with no easy solution, differing opinions, and personal contacts with real people. \u00a0The tour bus drove us back to Bethlehem for a quiet evening.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Tuesday &#8211; October 17, 2017 I woke up early at 5:45, showered, and went downstairs to breakfast at the Manger Square Hotel in Bethlehem. \u00a0The large room reminded me of a &#8220;church hall social.&#8221; \u00a0There were long tables neatly set in rows with noisy smiling pilgrims milling around, talking, and eating. \u00a0Sunrise view of Bethlehem [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[52],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-13181","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-palestine"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13181","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=13181"}],"version-history":[{"count":21,"href":"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13181\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":13236,"href":"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13181\/revisions\/13236"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=13181"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=13181"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=13181"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}