{"id":13275,"date":"2017-10-19T15:51:57","date_gmt":"2017-10-19T19:51:57","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/?p=13275"},"modified":"2017-12-30T18:46:36","modified_gmt":"2017-12-30T23:46:36","slug":"nablus-mount-gerizim-and-sebastia","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/?p=13275","title":{"rendered":"Nablus, Mount Gerizim, and Sebastia"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Thursday &#8211; October 19, 2017<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/IMG_3606.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13276\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/IMG_3606.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>We had to have an early start because we had a full schedule planned for today. \u00a0That&#8217;s my photo of the sun rising over the pool at the Jericho Resort Village. \u00a0After breakfast we drove north to the city of Nablus, whose biblical name was <em>Shechem. \u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC_9965.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13277\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC_9965.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"260\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC_9989.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13278\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC_9989.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"267\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC_9997.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13279\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC_9997.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"256\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Our first stop in Nablus was to see Jacob&#8217;s Well which is located within the Greek Orthodox Church of St. Photini at <em>Bir Ya&#8217;qub. \u00a0\u00a0<\/em>By\u00a0330 AD, this site had been identified as the place where Jesus held a conversation with a Samaritan woman. \u00a0The first church was built over the site in 384 AD. \u00a0Several other churches were built and destroyed over the centuries.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/IMG_3611.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13280\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/IMG_3611.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"250\" height=\"400\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>In 1860, the site was obtained by the Greek Orthodox church and a new church, dedicated to St. Photini the Samaritan, was built along with a monastery. \u00a0An earthquake destroyed the building in 1927.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC_0016.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13281\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC_0016.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"267\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Father Ioustinos led a major reconstruction project to rebuild the church and restore Jacob&#8217;s Well in a crypt on a lower level.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC_0022.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13282\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC_0022.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"252\" height=\"400\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Jacob&#8217;s Well is accessed by entering the church and descending stairs to the crypt where the well is located. \u00a0There is a winch with a handle and a bucket to draw water.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC_0030.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13284\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC_0030.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"267\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>A group of Greek monks and other tourists arrived and the priests conducted a service in the sanctuary.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC_0042.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13285\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC_0042.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"267\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>We left the church and drove to the center of Nablus, an ancient city located in a narrow valley between two mountains. \u00a0There are about 150,000 inhabitants in Nablus. \u00a0The city is a Palestinian commercial and cultural center, containing a large university and the Palestinian stock-exchange. \u00a0We walked into a huge <em>souq<\/em> or market.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC_0064.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13286\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC_0064.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"267\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC_0108.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13287\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC_0108.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"267\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC_0098.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13288\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC_0098.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"267\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC_0088.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13289\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC_0088.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"292\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>We left the market and crossed the busy intersection to a commercial street. \u00a0Hisham pointed out the Touqan Soap Factory which made soap using virgin olive oil, water and an alkaline sodium compound. \u00a0The finished soap is ivory-colored and has almost no scent.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC_0142.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13290\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC_0142.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"249\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>The ingredients of &#8220;Nabulsi&#8221; soap are heated in large copper vats and stirred continuously for eight days. \u00a0The liquid soap was spread evenly on the floor of the factory. \u00a0After it is set, the soap was cut into cubes and dried, for months, by stacking them in a high &#8220;cone&#8221; to allow air to circulate around the cubes.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC_0141.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13291\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC_0141.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"280\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>The floor of the factory was waxy and slippery and a little scary to walk on. \u00a0We left and walked to the next corner of the busy city.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC_0152.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13292\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC_0152.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"267\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Hisham directed us to a neighborhood bakery called <em>Abu Salha Sweets<\/em> and ordered <i>knafe\u00a0<\/i>&#8211; an Arab pastry made with cheese. \u00a0My guide book said the\u00a0<i>knafe <\/i>in Nablus is &#8220;the best you\u00a0will ever eat.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC_0160.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13293\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC_0160.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"251\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC_0162.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13294\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC_0162.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"268\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Fortified with\u00a0<i>knafe, <\/i>we boarded the bus and drove up a steep road up to the top of Mount Gerizim which is home to the last remaining community of Samaritans. \u00a0There are only 400 Samaritans left and they continue to practice some of the region&#8217;s strictest and most ancient religious traditions.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13296\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_0222.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"241\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Samaritans believe that Moses ordered them to live on Mount Gerizim to protect it as a sacred holy temple mount 3,600 years ago. \u00a0The mountain is one of the highest peaks in the West Bank and continues to be the center of the Samaritan religion. \u00a0It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13297\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_0180.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"267\" \/><\/p>\n<p>One of the members of the Samaritans met with us in a meeting area of the Samaritan Museum and Cultural Center. \u00a0She explained the history and practices of her religion. \u00a0Samaritans read and believe in the first five books of the Torah as the only true holy book given to Moses by God. \u00a0Mount Gerizim, not Jerusalem, is the true sanctuary chosen by Israel&#8217;s God. \u00a0During the holiday of <em>Sukkoth,\u00a0<\/em>the <em>sukkah\u00a0<\/em>is built inside houses instead of outdoors. \u00a0Sukkoth covering in the museum pictured below:<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_0185.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13315\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_0185.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"267\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>The leader of the Samaritans is called a &#8220;priest&#8221; and, following tradition, they slaughter and eat lambs on Passover eve. \u00a0We met one of the priests, who spoke perfect English, in his library where he described his books and teachings. \u00a0The high priest is pictured with Hisham in the photo below:<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13298\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_0201.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"267\" \/><\/p>\n<p>We walked across the street to the place where religious celebrations are held for the entire community. \u00a0Large pits on both sides were set up for roasting whole lambs during holidays.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13299\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_0204.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"267\" \/><\/p>\n<p>We drove back down the steep hill toward Nablus. \u00a0My head was swirling with the sights today: Jacob&#8217;s Well and the story of the Samaritan woman and Mount Gerizim and Samaritan beliefs.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_0224.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13301\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_0224.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"267\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>We left Mount Gerizim and drove down the steep road and back toward Nablus. \u00a0We continued on for several miles and began to climb up another single-lane road which was lined with the ruins of Roman columns.\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_0236.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13303\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_0236.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"262\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>There was a large clearing at the top of the hill &#8211; sort of a parking lot surrounded with a few buildings and more columns and ruins.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_0242.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13304\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_0242.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"259\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>We followed Hisham into a restaurant perched on the edge of the mountain with a spectacular view of the valley.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_0240.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13305\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_0240.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"267\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>The sign on the door was intriguing and I immediately liked the restaurant:<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_0244.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13306\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_0244.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"267\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>We were enthusiastically greeted by the owner and his son and shown to a table in the restaurant behind the gift shop. \u00a0The owner had attended the University of Alabama in his youth and displayed mementos of his college days in his shop.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_0248.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13307\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_0248.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"263\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_0252.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13308\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_0252.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"267\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>We had a delicious lunch of a variety of salads, chicken and rice, and &#8220;Palestinian pizza&#8221; made with sumac and other spices.<\/p>\n<p>After lunch we walked on a dirt path along the ridge of the mountain, just outside the restaurant, to the archaeological site of<i>\u00a0Sebastia <\/i>or<i> Sebastiyah.\u00a0<\/i> The original name of the town was <em>Shomron<\/em> and had been settled by several Israelite tribes during ancient times. \u00a0King Herod renamed the town in honor of Augustus Caesar. In Greek, <em>sebastos<\/em>\u00a0means &#8220;venerable.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_0257.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13309\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_0257.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"253\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>The ruins dominate the hillside and contain the remains of six successive cultures dating back more than 10,000 years: Canaanite, Israelite, Hellenistic, Herodian, Roman, and Byzantine.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_0273.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13310\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_0273.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"267\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>We sat on a step of the ruins of an amphitheater and Hisham told us about the history of this amazing place, Sebastia. \u00a0It was a story about historic conquerors and of the creation and destruction of the city many times during the millennia.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_0271.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13311\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_0271.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"267\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Alexander the Great destroyed the city in 331 BC to be rebuilt several times before Augustus Caesar gave it to Herod the Great. \u00a0It was the seat of a bishop and venerated during the Medieval period. \u00a0Sebastia was incorporated into the Ottoman Empire in 1517. \u00a0In modern times, the city has been under Israeli occupation after the Six-Day War in 1967.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_0279.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13312\" src=\"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_0279.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"291\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Today, during a time of relative peace, children can have a camel ride across the parking lot.<\/p>\n<p>Another incredible day!<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Thursday &#8211; October 19, 2017 We had to have an early start because we had a full schedule planned for today. \u00a0That&#8217;s my photo of the sun rising over the pool at the Jericho Resort Village. \u00a0After breakfast we drove north to the city of Nablus, whose biblical name was Shechem. \u00a0 Our first stop [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[52],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-13275","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-palestine"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13275","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=13275"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13275\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":13317,"href":"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13275\/revisions\/13317"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=13275"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=13275"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gallivantinggrandma.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=13275"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}