Easo, Lifou Island, New Caledonia

December 2nd, 2018

Sunday – December 2, 2018

Last night our ship left Noumea and cruised 120 miles across the Coral Sea to Lifou Island.  This is the most populous of the Loyalty Islands of New Caledonia.  Lifou is bigger than the island of Tahiti and it is the largest coral atoll in the South Pacific.

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The Amsterdam slowly passed by the coral reef that surrounds Lifou and we anchored in the beautiful Baie de Santal.

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We took one of the tenders into shore:

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Most of the people on Lifou are Kanak because the French government declared the Loyalties an indigenous reserve in 1899.  As a result the residents were spared the worst features of colonialism.  The Kanaks are one of the original Polynesian settlers of the region.

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Primitive straw huts were set up to provide shade for a few local people who offered hair braiding, massages, or coconut drinks for sale.  There was a more substantial long hut at the top of a small hill where vendors had set up handicrafts and souvenirs.

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We were told that the lifestyle of the local people is unhurried and many people grow their own yams, taro, and sweet potatoes in their gardens.

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We had been warned that no one spoke English, just French and Kanak. However, like vendors everywhere, the people had enough words to conduct business.

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Unfortunately, we couldn’t visit the entire island.  We were limited to this gorgeous bay and its beautiful beach. The water was crystal clear, warm and very inviting.

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Unfortunately, Jeff and I didn’t bring our bathing suits so we could just dip our toes in the water.  It was a beautiful unspoiled beach with pristine water.  It was my idea of a perfect tropical paradise.

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We stayed at the beach as long as we possibly could and finally reluctantly took the tender back to the ship.  The Amsterdam slowly moved out of the bay, past the reef, and into the Coral Sea.  It had been a wonderful day!  We watched the sun set over the Pacific….

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Noumea, New Caledonia

December 1st, 2018

Saturday – December 1, 2018

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We just had two days “At Sea” cruising the South Pacific Ocean on the Holland America Cruise Ship: M.S. Amsterdam.  They kept us busy with lectures, activities, and entertainment in the Main Stage Theater. We also had plenty of time to relax and enjoy a pampered lifestyle.

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Today we arrived in Noumea which is the capital and largest city of the French islands of Nouvelle Caledonie.  Noumea is situated on a peninsula in the southern part of New Caledonia’s main island, Grande Terre.  The city lies on a protected deep-water harbor and is one of the most industrialized cities in the South Pacific due to the island’s nickel and gold mines.

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Although French is the main language on the island, New Caledonia is a unique mix of French and Melanesian cultures.  During World War II, Noumea served as the headquarters of the U. S. military in the South Pacific.  We found an active market just off the harbor.

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Fresh fish and produce were set up in permanent structures.  Tents were set up in the back for clothes, beach equipment, souvenirs, tee-shirts, etc.

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Two men played island music behind one of the produce stands:

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This tropical tree blooms in December all over the South Pacific islands.  Someone said they call it their Christmas tree.

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There was a downtown with a quiet main street which led into the center of Noumea.

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The weather was hot (in the high 80s) and very humid.  It didn’t feel like Christmas!  We strolled back to the ship and cooled off in our air conditioned cabin.

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A cooling breeze blew across the harbor.  Later, we watched the sun set over the Pacific while the Amsterdam sailed away from Noumea, Nouvelle Caledonie.

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M.S. Amsterdam: Sydney, Australia Into the South Pacific Ocean

November 29th, 2018

Thursday – November 29, 2018

On Tuesday, we moved from our hotel in Sydney onto the Holland America ship The M.S. Amsterdam.  The cruise ship began a “Grand Asia & Pacific Voyage” from Los Angeles two months ago.  It circled the western Pacific Ocean with stops in Russia, Japan, China, Viet Nam, Singapore, Indonesia, and Australia.  We joined the Amsterdam in Sydney for the last leg of its voyage across the South Pacific Ocean.

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The ship will make stops at the islands of New Caledonia, Vanuatu, Fiji, Western Samoa, American Samoa, and Hawaii before ending its Grand Voyage in Los Angeles, California.  We had two days in Sydney’s port on board, so we explored the Amsterdam and settled in to our home-away-from-home for the next 25 days.  Here are some photos of the ship.  It’s lovely.  There were several comfortable seating areas:

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The Main Theater:

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The Dining Room:

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The Amsterdam is the smallest ship we’ve ever sailed on, so it’s quite cozy and easy to get around.  When we boarded, the woman at the registration desk told us that 150 passengers disembarked in Sydney and 70 new passengers embarked.  We later learned that there are only 805 passengers on board cruising from Sydney to Los Angeles with a crew of about 600.

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The weather deteriorated to strong winds and rain by the time The Amsterdam was ready to sail away from the dock on Wednesday evening.  Jeff and I sat by a rain-splattered window in “The Crow’s Nest” in the forward part of the ship as we sailed past Sydney Harbour.  We said our “Goodbyes” to the city we had enjoyed during the past two weeks.

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The wind increased and it was raining harder.  The Harbor Pilot was on board while two tugboats guided the Amsterdam out into the Tasman Sea.  When we cleared the last buoy, I saw the Pilot Boat struggling to get closer to our ship to collect the pilot.  Waves washed over the little boat and it rolled wildly side to side.

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We marveled at the talent and abilities of the driver of the Pilot Boat.  The Amsterdam, which was also rocking and rolling furiously, slowed its speed as much as possible, so the Pilot Boat could come alongside.  The driver tried unsuccessfully three times to get close to our ship.  A crewman was lashed to the deck of the Pilot Boat and finally with one quick maneuver, the smaller boat got close enough for the crewman to grab the Pilot and get him onboard.  They very quickly went below decks.  What an exciting scene to watch!  Everyone of us cheered and sighed in relief for the Pilot and his brave crew.

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The Pilot Boat returned to Sydney and The Amsterdam continued out into the raging Tasman Sea.  We had a rough night ahead of us and it was difficult to sleep as the Amsterdam rolled and rocked in the surging water.  Huge waves banged against the hull when the ship dipped forward.  The wind beat against the windows.  The ship shuddered and shook and the walls of our cabin creaked all night.  The next day, Captain Fred Eversen, said the waves had been well over 20 feet high.  It was an exciting beginning to our Pacific crossing!

Last Days in Sydney, Australia

November 26th, 2018

Monday – November 26, 2018

Our two weeks in Sydney passed very quickly.  The weather was favorable and we had a wonderful time exploring this vibrant city. During our last week we visited the Museum of Contemporary Art along Circular Quay.  I love the way the name of the museum wraps around the entrance making it look like “temporary art.”

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The artists whose works were exhibited were mainly from Australia, including several Aboriginal artists.

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This was really a window, but I liked the concept of Sydney on exhibit.

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I did a double-take on this sign:

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The harbour side entrance to the CMA:

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We visited Darling Harbour several times because there was so much to see there.  Besides the convention center and theaters, the Maritime Museum is on the harbor.

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The River Cats are ferries that take commuters along the Parramatta River.  They were named after famous Australians.  The one in my photo was named the “Evonne Goolagong” for the famous Aboriginal tennis champion.

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We didn’t go to the top of the Sydney Eye but could see it from everywhere:

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Saint Mary’s Cathedral:

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Artwork on the wall of a cafe in the city of Parramatta:

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Entrance gate to Sydney’s “Chinatown”

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Our last night in Sydney was spent walking along the harbor and around Dawes Point Park, under the Sydney Harbour Bridge.  It was a clear night and Sydney looked magnificent.

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We’re both sorry that Sydney isn’t closer so we could come back and visit again soon.  Who knows when, or if, we will ever return to this part of the world….

Photos Around Sydney

November 23rd, 2018

Friday – November 23, 2018

Jeff and I rode public transportation and walked all over the city of Sydney during our two weeks here.  We obtained Opal cards and put some money on them to have access to all the buses, trains, ferries, and light-rail trams all over the city. The cost of transportation depended on the distance. Most ferry rides were about six Australian dollars. The trains and trams were just a couple of Aussie dollars. Great public transportation system!

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The main commercial street down the center of Sydney is George Street.  Most of the street was closed to traffic because a light-rail tram system was being built.  I’d love to come back and see it in action.

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Sydney is developed with modern high-rise office and apartment buildings.  A few original sand-stone buildings are still standing as a reminder of Sydney’s elegant Victorian British roots.  The Strand Arcade is one of those original buildings.  Today the Strand houses Australian high-end boutiques, tailors and dressmakers, a custom shoe manufacturer, a bridal salon, art gallery, jewelers, a chocolatier, and several restaurants.

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At the other end of the commercial shopping spectrum was Market City.  This was a low-end marketplace with outlet stores, a supermarket, Paddy’s Market filled with inexpensive tourist souvenirs, and an Asian food-court.

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Did I mention the Australian White Ibis?  They’re everywhere, like giant pigeons or our sparrows, picking up bits of food dropped by careless people.  Their heads, tails, and feet are black and their bodies are off-white or light gray, so I don’t know how they were named.

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Buskers were at all the prime tourist locations.  The young man playing the didgeridoo in the photo below was near the train station on Circular Quay. He was very good!

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