Gori & Uplistsikhe, Georgia

October 22nd, 2014

Wednesday, October 22, 2014  – Sunny & bright: 3 degrees Celsius

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I spent a comfortable night at the Marco Polo Hotel in Gudauri, Georgia. This was a ski resort town located in the Greater Caucasus Mountain Range and at 6,572 feet, is the highest village on the Georgian Military Highway. Snow had fallen overnight and settled on the high peaks behind the hotel.

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Below are exterior and interior photos of the Marco Polo Hotel. The modern black and white two-story lobby was a surprise. The dining room was light and airy with a tasty buffet breakfast. My clean contemporary room was warm and comfortable.

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After breakfast, the bus took us back down the mountain trail and into the fertile valley toward Tbilisi. Gudauri was above the tree-line, but as we descended, yellow and orange fall leaves colored the landscape.

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Our destination was the city of Gori and the Joseph Stalin Museum.

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Our museum guide led us through the exhibits and explained the entire history of Stalin from his childhood in Gori through his rise to Soviet leadership. He was leader of the Communist Party of the Soviet Union from Lenin’s death in 1922 until his own death in 1952. The museum was a bit weird but interesting. No one bought souvenirs from the gift shop.

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Stalin was born in a small hut in Gori in 1878 which was preserved on the museum grounds. He and his parents lived in two rooms and his father’s shoe shop was in the basement.

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Next to Stalin’s hut was his personal armour-plated railway car which he used until 1941.

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After exploring the museum and the other exhibits, we boarded our coach and drove to an interesting restaurant that raised trout in a stream behind the building. The fish was tasty and well cooked. We also had Georgian cheese pie, a delicious chicken soup, a variety of salads and, of course, delicious fresh baked bread.
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After lunch, we were driven to the cave town called Uplistsikhe, which means ‘Lord’s Castle’. Below are photos which I took along the way. We were never far from livestock or the beautiful scenery of Georgia.

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Uplistsikhe was an important town along the trade route linking Byzantium with India and China. Thousands of people may have lived in these caves as early as 1000 BC until the late Middle Ages. Different styles of architecture were represented which combined pagan and Christian elements. The first photo is a map of what archeologists thought the spaces might have been.

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In order to exit the site, we had to climb down a steep narrow metal staircase through a dark tunnel. It was fun and good exercise to scramble among the huge boulders and explore the caves of Uplistsikhe. Afterwards, we drove several miles and through many centuries to the lovely modern city of Tbilisi. We checked into the Marriott Courtyard Hotel on Republic Square in the center of the capital.

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The group and I went to dinner at a Georgian restaurant which was built around a bakery. A beehive stone oven was located just inside the front door.

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We had a private room on the second floor and enjoyed a traditional Georgian dinner. Midway through the meal, an invited guest came to talk about modern life in Tbilisi and her work as an artist.

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From Churches to the Caucus Mountains of Georgia

October 21st, 2014

Tuesday October 21, 2014   cool, clear & crisp: 7 degrees Celsius
We checked out of the hotel and drove out of Telavi after a buffet breakfast. Snow glistened on the distant peaks of the Caucasus Mountains. Many people walked along the road on their way to local schools and bus stops to go to work.

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Our first stop of the day, was a lovely red-roof town named Sighnaghi. We stopped at an overlook to see the hill-top village from a distance and take photos. Later, the bus drove into Sighnaghi and parked so we had time to explore on our own and do a little shopping.

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Our next stop was the Monastery of St. Nino at Bodbe which was originally built in the 9th century. It had extensive renovations in the 17th century. Today the monastery functions as a nunnery because the relics of St. Nino, a 4th century female evangelist, were kept there.

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For lunch we drove an hour and a half into Tbilisi, the capital city of Georgia, and ate at an upscale restaurant overlooking the river.

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After a sumptuous lunch, we continued to Jvari Monastery on the outskirts of Tbilisi which was built in the 6th Century. Jvari translates to ‘Cross’ and it is believed that St. Nino erected a wooden cross on this site which had been a pagan temple. It is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

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The Jvari Monastery was built on a steep hill north of Tbilisi overlooking the city of Mtskheta. In a region of ancient cities, Mtskheta is considered to be one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Christianity was proclaimed the state religion of Kartli in 337 in Mtskheta and remains the headquarters of the Georgian Orthodox Church.

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The 11th century Svetitskhoveli Church is one of the Historical Monuments of Mtskheta. The name of the church means “Life Giving Column” which comes from an ancient Georgian legend.

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Late in the afternoon, the coach drove north on the Military Highway which runs all the way from Armenia to Russia. We continued along for several hours driving into the Greater Caucasus Mountains. We were told that famous Russian authors: Tolstoy, Pushkin, Dostoyevsky, and Chekhov traveled on this road to visit the beautiful country of Georgia.

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The dark road twisted around hairpin turns in the black night. I could see snow on the side of the road.  It was pitch dark in the mountains when we reached the Marco Polo Hotel in Gudauri. I was curious to see where I was and what it looked like in daylight.

Crossing into Georgia

October 20th, 2014

Monday, October 20, 2014    Sunny, cool & crisp fall day
We had an early buffet breakfast at the hotel. Then we left Sheki, Azerbaijan and drove northwest for several hours along the Caucasus Mountains. We passed many rural towns in Azerbaijan and saw flocks of sheep and herds of cattle along the road and across the road in front of the bus.

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We crossed the border between Azerbaijan and Georgia a little way after Balakan. The buildings were modern and the guards reminiscent of Soviet Russian days. Latif handled them well in a professional and friendly manner.

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In Georgia, the signs changed but the architecture of the rural villages were similar. Each house was a walled compound with fruit trees and vegetable gardens.

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We stopped briefly near the village of Gremi, to see the 16th Century royal citadel and the Church of the Archangels from a distance. Gremi had been a lively trading town on the Silk Road until it was destroyed by the armies of Shah Abbas I of Persia in 1615. It had been the capital of the Kingdom of Kakheti until the kings moved the capital to Telavi in the mid-1700s.

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We continued driving westward and after a while stopped at the Alaverdi St. George Cathedral and Monastery which is located in the Alazani River Valley in the Kakheti region of Georgia. The earliest structures of the complex date to the 6th century. King Kvirike the Great began construction of the cathedral during the 11th century.

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After touring the monastery, the coach drove to a local family’s home for lunch. For many hours we had driven past houses surrounded by stone walls so it was fun to go inside a residential compound. Our hostess:

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The owner invites tourists to her home to sample home-made regional Georgian food and also to perhaps buy her craft items made by local women.

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Everything we ate came from her garden and was very fresh and delicious. She also fermented, preserved, and bottled everything from her garden.

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Yes, that small outdoor structure in the cornfield pictured below was our toilet facility:

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Georgia is a beautiful country especially during the colorful fall season. The sun shone brightly on miles of vineyards with the Caucasus Mountains in the background. Georgian wine is well known and exported around the world.

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After a short ride, we reached the city of Telavi. We checked into the hotel and several group members and I walked down the main street to look for a bank to exchange Dollars into Laris. Telavi was built on a hillside so the streets were quite steep. The clouds in the photos below were hovering on top of the mountains in the distance.

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This was the view from my hotel room window. The hotel had a Russian atmosphere and was located on a main square.

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After a short rest, we went out to a home near Telavi for dinner. When we arrived, the hostess was baking bread in a tandoor in her backyard. Three musicians joined us and played Georgian folk music during dinner.

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Cheese pie, stuffed eggplant, potato & vegetable salad, cucumbers & tomatoes, cheese, pickled beets, bottled water, and of course, fresh bread.

 

A Busy Day in Sheki, Azerbaijan

October 19th, 2014

Sunday, October 19, 2014   Cloudy and cool – 66 degrees F
Today was our day to see the sights in the town of Sheki, Azerbaijan which is one of the oldest settlements in the country. Our first adventure of the day was the outdoor market. The coach dropped us off and we explored on our own. The people were friendly and invited us to try some of their produce. I love the outdoor markets around the world! They’re so vibrant and full of life and reveal so much about a culture.

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A man asked me to take a photograph of an older man sitting behind some fruits and vegetables. The second man smiled and held up a pomegranate. I took his picture and showed it to him, then he smiled broadly and gave me his pomegranate. I was touched by his kind gesture.

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After a fun time at the market we drove up a hill on the other side of the city to the Khan’s Palace from the 18th century which had an excellent view of Sheki in the valley among the hills. The fall leaves were beautiful despite the overcast sky.

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Our coach drove us up the hill to the walled fortress that surrounded the summer palace of the khan. The medieval wall gave an ancient feeling to the site. Within the compound, there are several museums, craft buildings, and a church as well as the Khan’s mosaic covered palace.

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We visited the craft shop of a woodworker who made the lattice windows of the palace using old techniques of fitting carefully cut wooden pieces together around the stained glass like a jigsaw puzzle. We were informed that the Venetian glass was imported from Murano and placed within the intricate wooden pieces.

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We had a little time to visit the shops along a street filled with interesting buildings constructed of large stones.

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That’s our driver playing the drum in a music shop. He was having a good time waiting for the group to finish shopping. Then we had lunch in a charming local restaurant which had a lovely outdoor garden in the back for summer dining.

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We ate a delicious soup and stuffed vegetables. Dessert was sweet walnut baklava and chai in a glass – Turkish style. Then we were taken to a silk factory and shop. Sheki is famous for its production of silk carpets and fabrics.

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We had the afternoon free to rest or explore Sheki on our own, so one of my tour mates and I walked around the neighborhood of the hotel. It’s a lovely city with friendly people and interesting architecture. There seemed to be many hotels, restaurants, shopping, and sites to visit.

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We saw several “wedding cars” decorated for the festivities. Marriages seem to be a major event in this part of the world.

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In the evening, we had dinner at an authentic old caravanserai which was renovated some years ago and is currently a hotel and restaurant.

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During dinner, we heard a trio play Azeri folk music called mugham on traditional instruments. It was so much fun!  Sheki was a great place to visit.

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Baku to Sheki, Azerbaijan

October 18th, 2014

Saturday, October 18, 2014  It was cool and windy in Baku, Azerbaijan this morning.

I woke up early to have breakfast at the hotel before our departure at eight o’clock. Unfortunately, our time in Baku was limited. We were scheduled to spend two nights and just one day touring the city. It looked like a beautiful, vibrant metropolis with many things to do and see. Our small group checked out of the hotel and we boarded the huge bus to drive south toward the city of Qobustan. On the way, we stopped at the Bibi-Heybat Mosque which was originally constructed in the 13th century. It had been destroyed in 1934 by Stalin’s army but was completely reconstructed in 1998.

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The mosque is located on the main road near one of Azerbaijan’s first oil fields developed in the late 19th century. The house of worship was built on the side of a steep hill which rose above the Caspian Sea. Across the road, behind Bibi-Heybat, there was a large cemetery which extended further up the mountain.

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Walking to the edge of the overlook from the mosque, I took a photo of a large shipyard on the Caspian Sea:

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The coach continued driving south toward the ancient city of Qobustan. The earth was dry and desert-like. We passed commercial oilfields, refineries, and other commercial establishments on the outskirts of Baku.

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We were on our way to see the ancient petroglyphs which were discovered in 1939. There was an excellent new museum which gave visitors an historic overview of the site and some clues to the symbolism of the rock drawings.

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After we toured the museum, we climbed up among huge boulders to see the 15,000 year-old petroglyphs.

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Below is a photo of Latif explaining current theories of what the drawings might have meant to the ancient people who lived among the caves.

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The weather cleared, the sun shone brilliantly and there was a fantastic view out toward the Caspian Sea from the hill we had climbed:

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Today was our day to drive to the Azeri city of Sheki, about 300 km northwest of Baku. Below are several photos I took along the route which, I think, gives an idea of the countryside of Azerbaijan:

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Another historic mosque along the way:

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We stopped for lunch at a roadside restaurant somewhere in Azerbaijan. We drove into the Caucasus Mountains.

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We stopped at a natural sulphur spring. There was also a ‘general store’ and a man selling preserves and other flavored waters.  Latif  bought a bottle of ‘wild rose water’ which he said was for his health. He said he takes one teaspoon of the flavored water every day.

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We arrived in Sheki about 5:30 PM and checked into the Sheki Saray Hotel. My room was lovely and comfortable, with a large window and a balcony. It was spacious, clean, and had a strong WiFi signal. I had time to rest before dinner and called Jeff on FaceTime. Two views of the hotel and the lobby:

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Dinner was at a lovely restaurant near the hotel where we had a delicious meal of traditional Azeri food:

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It was a long day on the road, but it was varied and interesting. Tomorrow I will see the city of Sheki, Azerbaijan.