Friday – November 4, 2011
It was a cool rainy morning in Venice. The famous Sirocco wind was blowing and we lingered over breakfast at the hotel.
Venetian Passing the San Samuele Vaporetto Station
We decided to go to Ca’ Rezzonico which is one of the museums in Venice located right on the Grand Canal. We missed it the last time we visited because of the heat. We purchased transportation passes which gives us seven days of unlimited vaporetto rides, and hopped on a boat to the stop right outside the museum.
Entrance to Ca’ Rezzonico
Ca’ Rezzonico, also called the museum of 18th Century Venice, is housed in a large magnificent Venetian palazzo built in 1667. Unfortunately, photos were not allowed so I couldn’t document the experience. The palazzo has very impressive Murano glass chandeliers and intricately carved furniture which reflect the lifestyles of wealthy Venetians of the period.
Venice Rooftops From Ca’ Rezzonico
There are several Tiepolo paintings on the ceilings, and other notable Italian artists’ works are displayed. The Martini gallery on the top floor houses a fine collection of Venetian art. One interesting fact is that the poet Robert Browning died in the palazzo in 1889.
After a snack at the cafe, we hopped on a vaporetto and went to the San Polo district to visit the Scuola Grande di San Rocco.
Campo de San Rocco
Venetian “Scuolas” are are artistic jewels which are scattered around the city. Scuolas, which were created during the Middle Ages, were fraternities or members of guilds which offered a variety of services to the members. There are several large paintings by Tintoretto on the walls and ceiling of the Scuola Grande di San Rocco. There are also paintings by Titian (1500s) and Tiepolo (1700s).
Inside the Scuola Grande di San Rocco
We walked around the Scuola and marveled at the incredible paintings. We sat for a while in the magnificent room. Improved lighting highlighted wonderful carvings on the walls. Then we crossed the Campo to the Church of San Rocco.
Church of San Rocco
The small church is a treasure trove of Tintoretto paintings which depict the life of St. Roch. It’s incredible to realize that the art is part of the people’s every-day lives and not limited to museums or other remote show places.
Casa di Carlo Goldoni
The Grand Canal
After all the walking and sight seeing in the museums we were getting tired, so we returned to our hotel to rest. After a couple of hours we ventured out for dinner. We had wanted to eat at d’Ivo, which Jeff had read about, but without reservations we were turned away.
On our way out, I asked the maitre d’ to recommend another restaurant and he sent us to Ai Mercanti. Jeff knew that this was nouvelle Italian from the menu posted outside, but we went in for a unique experience.
Our Secondi Piattis at Ai Mercanti
For our first course, I had pigeon soup with pigeon liver and Jeff had tortilloni stuffed with chicken and veal kidneys. Our second course was squid and cuttlefish for me and venison for Jeff. Everything was very tasty and delicious! It was a fun restaurant, even if the portions were rather small!!
Side Door of Ristorante d’Ivo
As we walked back to the hotel through the dark quiet Venetian alleyways, we passed d’Ivo. A Gondola pulled up to the restaurant and the gondolier knocked on the side door and said something in Italian to the waiter. We watched from the bridge as a couple started out the door and climbed into the gondola. Now that’s taxi service Venice style…….
