A Slower Day

April 27th, 2011

Wednesday, April 27, 2011

I woke up early this morning and didn’t feel well.  I was very dizzy, nauseous, and head achy.  I stayed in bed and slept.  To make things worse, the weather channel on television talked about severe tornadoes heading in this direction toward northern Georgia!  Jeff went down to the desk and reserved the room for another day.  I slept until noon.

Spring Flowers

When I woke up, I felt a lot better.  I took a nice hot shower and we went out.  Jeff drove us to the nearby town of Helen for lunch.  Helen is a very unusual place.  In the early 1800s gold had been discovered in the region causing the “Great Georgia Gold Rush.”  The prospectors left  Helen after gold was discovered in California.

Helen, Georgia

During the early 1900s lumber was the commodity and several sawmills successfully operated for a period of time.  Eventually the city of Helen fell into rapid decline and light manufacturing businesses moved to other locations.  In 1968 two local businessmen talked the townspeople into transforming their town into a Bavarian village.  Business owners and local carpenters added gingerbread trim and shutters, and painted German murals on the faces of the buildings.  They added Alpine towers to the roofs and made cobblestone alleyways.

Tourist Information Office

Today Helen is a tourist destination in the mountains of northern Georgia!  It was a short 30 minute drive from Cornelia to Helen.  We arrived with low expectations, but were pleasantly surprised by most of the buildings.  Many were charming and, though a bit over the top, the decorations reminded us houses in the Switzerland.  Most of the names of the streets in Helen have German names, for example: Edelweisstrasse.  We stopped at Hofer’s Bakery – Konditorei – Cafe on North Main Street.  The double pitched roof and brown porch railings could have been anywhere in the Alps.

Hofer’s Bakery – Konditorei – Cafe

The entrance led to the bakery which had luscious looking pastries in the display case.  We smiled at the Sacher torts, Apfelkuechle, strudels, and bread puddings.  We sat down in the pleasant dining room and perused the menu.  Among the Bauern Fruhstuck was Pregel & Lox, Bavarian Cold Cuts, and Eggs & Grits.  Jeff ordered bratwurst & sauerkraut with gravy laden mashed potatoes.  Since my stomach wasn’t a hundred percent yet, I had a cup of chicken noodle soup and half a ham & Swiss cheese on rye sandwich.  For added atmosphere, there was a group of people sitting near our table who were speaking German!

More Shops in Helen

After lunch we drove around the town for a little while, but the shops didn’t interest us so we didn’t stop.  Jeff had read about Fred’s Famous Peanuts on Tripadvisor so we drove up the road to find it.  Fred’s was a small shack along the roadside, just off Route 356, on the way to Unicoi State Park.

Fred’s Famous Peanuts

We took photos and sampled boiled and fried peanuts and tasted peach cider.  Jeff also decided that he had to have a tee shirt from Fred’s Famous Peanuts.  By the time we left, it was starting to rain.  Huge gray clouds had been moving by all afternoon.  This was part of the string of storms and tornadoes which were menacing other parts of the south and mid-west today.

Fred’s Roadside Stand

We returned to the car and drove south again.  At the junction of Highways 17 and 75 was the Nacoochee Indian Mound.  This was a large grass covered mound of earth with a round wooden cupola on top.  It is a sacred ancient Indian ceremonial site.  The mound was located in the center of a Cherokee village and an eternal flame burned on top.   There was a legend attached to the mound, but in actuality it marks former Cherokee land.

Ancient Nacoochee Indian Mound

Down the road a little bit is the tiny village of Sautee.  There were several old brown wooden buildings in a cluster.  We parked near the general store and wished that the two cars parked directly outside would move so we could photograph the building. Two men were playing checkers on the porch.

The Old Sautee Store

Inside the entrance door there were two wooden Indians and a small wood-burning stove.  On one side there was an automatic roller “piano” which operated by a little vacuum cleaner on the floor.  On the left side was a long counter with a smiling troll statue and other curiosities. The shelves along the walls were filled with old antiques of all kinds.  There was so much to look at!

The Front Room of the General Store

We had fun looking at all the old stuff and took lots of photographs, but we were tired and were ready to return to our hotel in Cornelia.  This part of Georgia is unlike any other part of the state.  It is very different from “Coastal Georgia” which we saw a few weeks ago in the beginning of this Road Trip. This region is referred to as The Northeast Mountains of Georgia and is actually the foothills of the Appalachian Mountains.

This western part of Georgia is really very beautiful!  The terrain is hilly and the narrow roads twist and turn.  The dramatic clouds and threatening skies added to rough-hewn spirit of the place.  The houses are modest cabins and the lifestyle of the people is self-sufficiency with a strong pioneering spirit.

Northwest Georgia

After a little bit of a rest at the hotel, we went to a small local place in Cornelia for dinner.  When we were almost finished, two Southern “gentleman” walked into the restaurant.  One was an older ordinary looking fellow.  The other, a man perhaps in his mid forties, wore full camouflage pants and shirt, high leather construction boots, and sported a round Mohawk-like hair-do on the top of his head.  As he sauntered through the door, I noticed that around his waist there was a black belt with holster and a rather large hand-gun sticking out of the holster.  The first thought that rattled through my brain was, “Is that legal?!”  Then I quietly whispered to Jeff to check out the gun!  The man’s cell phone rang and he walked back outside.  We quickly finished our suppers and left.  I was reminded of the bumper sticker I saw earlier: “I’ll Keep My Gun and My Money and My Freedom – You Can Keep the Change.” Thank goodness we have gun control in New York!

Driving North Through Georgia

April 26th, 2011

Tuesday, April 26, 2011

I woke up in Valdosta, Georgia this morning.  It was a cloudy, overcast, gray day.  The temperature was in the high 70s and the air felt humid.  We packed up the car and easily drove to Route 41.  We wanted to continue our trip north on the slower road, instead of the 70 mile per hour Route 75.

Corner Pawn Shop in Valdosta, Georgia

We drove through Valdosta.  It was not a prosperous city and there seemed to be no tourism.  This part of Georgia looks a lot like northern Florida.  The land is very flat and the earth looks sandy.  There are many palm trees interspersed with southern long-needle pine trees.

Southwestern Georgia

We continued through the tiny towns of Hahira, Adel, Tifton, Inaha, and Cordele, and many, many more.  All the towns are now a blur of buildings and cars.  At some point, we decided to make up time and got on Route 75.  There is “cruise control” on my car and once it is set, the drive was pretty easy because there wasn’t much traffic.

Thousands of Billboards on Route 75

Somewhere around “middle Georgia”, the terrain changed.  There were more green trees and tall green grass and no palm trees.  The architecture of the houses looked more like upstate New York.  We passed by large fields and farmland.  We saw roadside stands selling Vidalia onions and strawberries.  Thousands of ugly commercial billboards along the highway kept our brains occupied on Route 75 as we drove for several hours.  They should be outlawed for ruining the beauty of Nature!!

All Kinds of Advertisements

The draw of advertisements finally enticed us to stop at the “Magnolia Plantation” for fresh roasted pecans.  The outside of the building was mock-columned mansion and the inside was a large commercial space.  After our purchases of peanut brittle and pecan halves, we resumed the drive on the highway.

Magnolia Plantation Pecans

We finally reached Macon, Georgia and drove through the city.  The part of the city which we drove through looked like a poor community with many pawn shops, empty stores, and foreclosure signs.  Two of the attractions in the city are the Harriet Tubman Museum & Information Center and the Music Hall of Fame.  Macon is supposed to have the largest historic district in the state of Georgia.  We didn’t stop to see it.

After Macon, we picked up Route 129 northbound.  We stopped in the town of Gray long enough for Jeff to go into a local Krystal fast-food restaurant for a small hamburger.  He had read about the company and wanted to try one.  It looked gross to me!

Abandoned House on the Side of the Road

Athens was our next goal, and on the way we drove through the towns of Eatonton and Madison.  Eatonton was the birthplace of Alice Walker, the author who wrote The Color Purple.  The town is also the birthplace of author and journalist, Joel Chandler Harris who wrote The Uncle Remus Stories.  There is a statue of Brer Rabbit – born and bred in the briar patch – in a park in the town.

We made a wrong turn in Madison, which gave us an opportunity to explore the historic town a bit.  It had interesting architecture and looked somewhat prosperous.  According to Wikipedia, most of Madison’s one hundred Antebellum houses have been restored, which earned the town the title of “The Prettiest Small Town in America.

Antebellum House in Madison, GA

The story is that Sherman spared the town because it was too beautiful to burn during his March to the Sea.  Historians say that the reason the town was spared was because a pro-Union Senator lived there.  The Senator attended West Point with General Sherman’s brother.  So, political causes won out over aesthetics.  We saw lovely antebellum houses which lined both sides of the road north of Madison.

Main Street Madison, Georgia

We finally reached Athens, Georgia and paid mental homage to our former President Jimmy Carter and his brother, Billy.  We drove on the perimeter road and bypassed the city entirely.  North of Athens, we found Route 441 North and drove toward the mountains. The terrain became more hilly and the road had more twists and turns.

About an hour later, we arrived in the town of Cornelia.  Believe it or not, there is a Hampton Inn in town!  We had a bit of trouble finding the hotel because it was partially hidden behind another hotel, but we finally spotted a sign.  In a town of about 3800 people, Cornelia had four hotels and many fast-food restaurants.  We wondered who came here and why.

We found Gusben’s Restaurant on Main Street and enjoyed a good dinner from their fresh salad bar.  This was our third long driving day and I was tired.

Main Street in Cornelia, Georgia

We made good time and covered a vast amount of land from Key West Florida to the foot of the Blue Ridge Mountains.  I am really ready for a “down day”.

The Salad Bar in Gusben’s Restaurant

Driving Through Rural Florida

April 25th, 2011

Monday – April 25, 2011

We left Sarasota, Florida fairly early and drove toward Route 75 by about 9:30 in the morning.  We wanted to avoid driving into the cities of Tampa and St. Petersburg, because we wanted to make better progress driving north.  After we were well north of the cities, we drove west on Route 52 toward the Gulf of Mexico.  When we almost reached the beaches, we turned north onto Route 19.

It was a work day and Easter Monday, so there was very little traffic.  It is amazing how many fast-food chain restaurants we have passed on this trip.  I can understand why Europeans are appalled when they visit the U.S.  I guess Americans eat a lot of greasy hamburgers!  The other business which must be prospering is the pawn business.  We can’t believe the quantity of pawn shops we have seen everywhere on this trip.

Fast-Food Restaurants & Ugly Signs

One tourist attraction which we didn’t stop to see was in Weeki Wachee, Florida.  This is the famous “Mermaid Show”.  Apparently, young women perform underwater wearing mermaid costumes and put on an “interesting” show.  They carry breathing tubes with them and gracefully make it look like they’re breathing underwater.  Oh well, maybe next time….

Northern Florida Farm Country

We drove for a couple of hours then decided to stop for lunch at the coastal town of Homosassa.  The road toward the water was lined with trees dripping with Spanish Moss.  It was a cool, dark and interesting road.  About a half mile down there was an interesting structure.  It was the remains of a sugar mill from the mid 1800s.

The Old Sugar Mill

The plaques around the stone mill explained that the region had been known for its sugar cane production.  The mill was used to squeeze out the sugar from the cane.  We took some photographs and then continued down the road.

The Other Side of the Mill with Iron Caldrons

At the end there were several buildings which housed tourist boats for hire.  There was also a hotel and restaurant on the water.  We decided to have lunch at the Riverside Crab House.  I had read about the restaurant and wanted to go there, not for their crab, but for its proximity to Monkey Island.

Riverside Crab House

There is a small island located about 50 feet from the restaurant which is inhabited by five squirrel monkeys.  People in the restaurant can watch the monkeys while eating their lunches or dinners.

Monkey Island

We continued north on Route 19 through rural Florida.  There wasn’t much traffic and we passed citrus orchards, strawberry fields, and other agricultural farms.  The terrain is flat and the soil is sandy.  The temperature was 86 degrees, hot and humid.  It is amazing that anything can grow here.

On the Way to Georgia

We continued east on Route 129 and finally got on Route 75 again.  It was a long driving day through northern Florida and we finally crossed the Georgia border.  We stopped at the Welcome Center for a map of Georgia and continued one exit to Valdosta.

A True ‘Blue Highway’

We drove to the Hampton Inn just off the highway and checked in.  The architecture of this hotel was different than any of the others.  There was a large three-story opening in the center of the building with the halls, leading to the rooms, overlooking the breakfast area.

The Front Porch

After we found our room, we returned outside to have dinner at the Family House Restaurant.  This was a local Mom & Pop type eatery which served “home made” southern food.  On the menu were such delectables as grilled or fried catfish, grits anyway, biscuits with sausage gravy, hush puppies, fried corn bread, southern fried chicken, etcetera, etcetera.

Interior of the Farm House Restaurant

I had Southern chicken ‘n’ dumplings with fried okra & green beans.  Jeff had another Southern favorite: chicken fried steak and mashed potatoes with gravy and corn.  It was an interesting place and the food was very tasty!  It had been a long driving day.  We saw many new and interesting places today.

Naples to Sarasota, Florida

April 24th, 2011

Sunday – April 24, 2011

When we drove across the Everglades yesterday and arrived in Naples Florida, we both were pleasantly surprised.  Naples looked like a prosperous, elegant, and pleasant place to live.  Route 41 was a wide boulevard with a lovely center island blooming with lovely flowers and palm trees.  The Everglades were wilderness wetlands and, in contrast, Naples seemed like a refined and gentile city.

Causeway Toll Booth to Sanibel Island

We were on the road by nine o’clock in the morning.  We drove around a little to see more of Naples and discovered beautiful houses along the Gulf of Mexico.  Each street dead-ended at the beach and provided public access and a few public parking spaces.

The Causeway to Sanibel & Captiva Islands

We continued on Rt. 41 north then turned west on Bonita Beach Road.  The road continued to Estero Blvd. and across the western barrier island of Fort Myers Beach.  Our goal was to to see Sanibel Island and Captiva.  We took the narrow bridge across San Carlos Bay.  It was Easter Sunday and families had already gathered along the beach of the Sanibel Causeway. They had claimed their territory; set out the grills and picnic gear, turned on the music, and gathered to enjoy the day.

Typical Road on Sanibel

Once we were on the island, we drove east to see the Sanibel Lighthouse.  We passed several resorts and condominium units along the narrow road.  The speed limit is 20 or 25 MPH, so everyone moved in slow-motion.  The lighthouse looked like a large rusty pipe surrounded by scaffolding with a light on the top.

Sanibel Lighthouse

Then we drove north and west along the main driving road.  We had to share the road with many bicyclists and it was a tedious drive.  The island seemed like a comfortable and pleasant place to live; it reminded me of the expression: “dressy casual”.  The houses were relatively modest, but very nice, and probably cost a fortune.

We drove to the end of Captiva and turned around.  It was sunny and hot and we were thirsty, so we stopped at a general store to purchase cold drinks.  We finally drove off the islands and noticed that there were more picnicking families along the causeway.  Loud music blared and the scene was very different from Sanibel and Captiva.

Sanibel Island Houses from the Causeway

We continued to drive north along Route 41, but felt that we were moving too slowly.  We decided to make up some time by hopping on the fast Route 75.  I drove for a couple of hours on the 65 mph highway.  It was a tiring drive because the other drivers were driving much faster than my 68 mph and it took a lot of concentration to drive that fast on a two-lane highway, parts of which were under construction.

The Tibbals Learning Center

We got off Route 75 at one of the Sarasota exits and drove towards the Gulf.  We drove through some nice neighborhoods and ended at the John & Mable Ringling Museum of Art.  It was about 3:00 o’clock and we didn’t have time to see all of the museum.  The woman who sold us the tickets made some recommendations of what to see with limited time.

Side-Show Miniatures

We first went to the new exhibit of The Circus Miniature – Tibbals Learning Center.  This is a 3800 square-foot replica of The Ringling Brothers, Barnum & Bailey Circus before 1958 when it was a traveling circus.

A man named Howard Tibbals made all the miniature figures during the last 50 years.  The Ringling Museum built an addition to their Circus Museum to house the collection.  It was an amazing display!!

The Howard Circus Big Top

There were few people at the museum today.  We walked to the other end of the circus museum to see the collection of circus memorabilia.

There were wagons, costumes, posters, and other circus artefacts.  There was a woodcarving workshop and a displays of circus memorabilia.  One display had Emmitt Kelly’s costume and props.  We took several photographs and continued to John & Mabel Ringling’s beautiful house on the Gulf.

A Circus Wagon

The interior and exterior of the house was impressive.  It was located directly on the water with a spectacular view of the bay.  The architecture is called Venetian Gothic and it is actually a palace.  In Venetian style, the name of the house is: Ca’ D’Zan or House of John.

The Garden View of Ca’ D’Zan

The interior was decorated in a heavy European style which was the fashion in the 1920s when the Ringlings used the house during the winters.

The Main Living Space with Balcony

We didn’t purchase the “guided tour” so we could not see the upstairs rooms.  We had the “self-guided” general admission.  It was fine because we could take as many photos as we wanted and there was a lot to photograph downstairs.

John Ringling’s French Desk

The Ringlings used the house mainly for entertaining and it seemed like a perfect house to entertain guests and have a good time!

It started to rain when we left the Circus Museum and ended in a heavy downpour.  We had not had rain for many weeks and it was good to experience it again.  At the end of the storm a beautiful, almost total rainbow filled the sky.  If you look closely to the photo, you can see the beginnings of a second arch above to the left of the main rainbow.  Double lucky?!

Lucky Rainbow

We found yet another Hampton Inn near the highway and later we had a surprisingly good dinner at a seafood chain nearby called the Bonefish Grill.  It was a good day.  The day was filled with many interesting sights and good memories.

Northbound Driving Day

April 23rd, 2011

Saturday – April 23, 2011

Key West was a lot of fun and we decided that we would like to return during the winter when the weather is cooler and NOT during a holiday weekend.  We didn’t have a reservation for tonight and didn’t want to pay an exorbitant rate for a room to sleep in, so we decided to leave The Keys.

View From the Overseas Highway

We checked out and drove north along the dual lane Overseas Highway.  Traffic was heavy in both directions.  Southbound traffic was heavier with people driving to Key West for the Easter Weekend.  The speed-limit drops to 35 MPH frequently and many people sight-see along the highway and drive slowly.  Again it took almost three hours to drive off The Keys.

Traffic Going Onto The Keys

We were planning to drive north on the western side of Florida and eventually reach home.  It was about 12:30 (lunchtime) when we reached Florida City/Homestead.  We stopped at the same Cracker Barrel that we had stopped at when we arrived at The Keys.  After lunch we found Route 997, but it was so slow that we abandoned it and drove north on the toll-road Route 75, which runs along western Miami.

The Everglades Parkway

After a short time, we turned west onto Routes 41/90 and crossed the famous swamp known as the Everglades.  Further north Route 75 also runs east and west across the Everglades.  Rt. 75 is the most popular road with an assortment of colorful names such as: Tamiami Trail, the Everglades Parkway, and Alligator Alley.

We wanted to cross the Everglades on the lesser-known road, Route 41, also called The East Tamiami Trail.  In the beginning of the road, we wondered if we had made the right choice, because it was narrow and followed a deep canal.  This road was built in 1928 is about 264 miles long.  On the left there were commercial air-boat companies selling rides in the Everglades.

Flat Part of the Everglades

Most of this part of this huge wetlands was flat and uninteresting.  Later there were larger trees and plants along the two-lane road.  We also passed several Indian villages on both sides of the road.  The most fun was seeing signs warning drivers of “Panther Crossing” and “Alligator Crossing”.

Native American Village

It took us almost two hours to cross the Everglades and drive into the beautiful city of Naples, Florida.  It was early evening, the sun was setting, and the broad streets were empty because it was the day before Easter.  While I drove through the Everglades, Jeff consulted his iPhone to look for a hotel in town.  We have had such good luck with the Hampton Inns that we decided to continue to use them.  He found a Hampton Inn directly on Route 41 in Naples.

The Gulf of Mexico

We had been driving in the car all day and were were “car-tired”, but our goal today was to see the Gulf of Mexico and the west coast of Florida.  We drove to the beach and found a beautiful calm coast.  Then to take a break!  Again the Hampton Inn came through for us: very clean, modern, free internet, free parking, free breakfast, nice people, large room with sitting area, and all for $89.00 per night.  We were happy!

Houses Along the Gulf

We rested for a while then we drove out into Naples, Florida to have dinner.  The iPhones are ideal to find a hotel or a restaurant.  All we do is open the Maps App to the place that we’re going and type in what we want, for example: “restaurants”.  Then the map lists all the local restaurants in one click!

Looking South Along the Gulf

Jeff found a well established restaurant named Kelly’s Fish House Dining Room down by the harbor.  Their card advertises, “Serving Sealicious Seafood Since 1952 – Stone Crabs: October 15 thru May 15”.  The Fish House was located right on the water with commercial fishing boats down a row of old wooden buildings.

Fish House Restaurant

I had never eaten stone crabs, but I love Maryland crabs, and the stone crabs were in season.  They are thick crabs with black points on the ends of their claws.  I couldn’t miss the opportunity, so I had “sealicious” stone crabs, as they were listed on the menu.  They were very fresh and delicious!  Jeff had yummy fresh fried shrimp.  You can’t beat fresh seafood!