First Impressions

August 2nd, 2010

We arrived at Ataturk Airport at 9:55 in the morning Istanbul time after a nine hour flight.  The weather was hot, hazy, and very humid. It took more than an hour to get out of the airport and drive to hotel.  After much research and many emails to my cousins last winter, we had decided to make reservations at The White House Hotel in the Sultanahmet District of Istanbul.  Of course, you never know what to expect when you make an online hotel reservation, sight unseen, in a strange city. I am very happy to report that the White House Hotel is a winner!! It deserves it’s top rating in Trip Advisor.  The young woman at the reception desk was professional and friendly and very helpful.  The young man who helped us with our bags was also kind and mannerly.

The White House is a small “boutique hotel” and is very clean, comfortable, and well run.  My single room (probably also a double) is on the small side, but immaculate, pleasant, and well decorated.  It has a very efficient air conditioner (of which I immediately lowered the temperature), and it has free WiFi in all the rooms.  The White House was completely rebuilt less than a year ago, so everything is new and clean.  The hotel is situated on a small and quiet street off the main tourist routes.  It seems to be a commercial neighborhood of print and photocopy shops and book stores. There are many good restaurants surrounding the hotel. Best of all the people who work in the White House are all wonderful, helpful, and friendly staff of young, eager, hardworking, pleasant people.  Any time during the day or night, we were greeted with friendly welcomes.

The location of the hotel is also perfect.  The Sultanahmet district is called the “old city” because it is in the heart of historic Byzantium/Constantinople where most of the tourist sights are located.  The Hagia Sophia is a short ‘blocks’ away.  The Blue Mosque is across a beautiful little park, and the Hippodrome, the Basilica Cistern, and many many restaurants are close by.  The modern “tram”, runs along the street past Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, carries locals and tourists across the Golden Horn on the Galata Bridge.  Topkapi Palace, the Archeological Museum, and Gulhane Park are a short walk from The White House in several directions.  Up the hill, toward the north, is the Grand Bazaar, the Spice Bazaar, and enough shopping stalls in the narrow little streets to satisfy any compulsive shopaholic.

After we checked in and were shown to our rooms, we decided to walk around the neighborhood to see what was there.  We also wanted to buy  bottled water and to find a bank with an ATM to obtain Turkish Liras.  We had asked for directions at the reception desk but missed a turn and ended up walking through a neighborhood of small clothing stores. The stores lined the narrow streets and resembled stalls in a market place.  They seemed to be selling every type of clothing imaginable and reminded me of the garment district in down town Manhattan.

It would be easy to get lost and lose one’s direction in the small narrow interconnecting ancient streets and alleyways.  We walked through the cobblestone maze surrounded by workers carrying and hauling boxes and bags of clothes. Men pushed hand-trucks overloaded with boxes up and down the hilly stone streets. Some other men were hunched over carrying huge loads on their backs on hand-made twine and wood “back-packs”.

Chris quickly learned the interconnecting alleyways and side streets.  He was immediately able to find our way back to the hotel.  Amazing!!  After we found a bank, we walked down the hill toward the Hagia Sophia Museum.  The area was crowded with tourists.  We walked around to get our bearings and looked at the Blue Mosque and the pretty park connecting it to Hagia Sophia.  The tourists seemed to be mostly Muslims with the women sporting a wide variety of feminine head coverings.

We both were hot and very tired from not sleeping on the plane to Istanbul, so we returned to the White House Hotel and took short naps in our own cool rooms.  My room is on the first floor and Chris’s room is on the third floor.  In the early evening, it felt a bit cooler and we returned to Divan Yolu Caddesi (the big “tram street” we called it).  We found a restaurant on a small side street overlooking the Blue Mosque and had a good veggie dinner.  Then Chris and I strolled leisurely back to the White House. On the way, we purchased a few postcards and bought two small pieces of baklava to eat later.  It had been more than a full day and 5,123 miles travelled from New York City to Istanbul.  We earned a rest!

Istanbul

August 1st, 2010

I don’t know what I expected Istanbul to be like before I arrived, but the city is like nothing I have ever experienced before!  It is a huge, bustling, noisy city full of people from every part of the world.  Parts of Istanbul are as cosmopolitan and modern as New York or Paris and other parts of the city are as backward as any third world country.  Istanbul is a city that is full of surprises with something new to experience on every corner!

I will start at the beginning of the trip.  My son, Chris, and I arrived at Ataturk Airport on Monday morning, August 1st.  The night flights across the Atlantic Ocean to Europe are just awful.  It is pure torture to sit upright on a small, hard seat for nine hours, be fed disgusting “food”, and then be catapulted into the bright sunshine of a new city.  Ataturk Airport looked like it was still under construction and smelled of hardening cement and wet paint.

It was a long walk following “baggage claim” signs to an area which looked like JFK Airport’s Immigration windows where a long line winded its way to several caged inspectors.  As we joined our fellow travellers at the end of the line, I noticed three windows to the left with a big sign that read, “VISA”.  I had read that a Visa was necessary for Americans to enter Turkey, so we moved over to that line.  After the agent stuck a small sticker in our passports and collected $20.00 from each person, we rejoined the entry line.  We received a quick stamp in our passports from the inspector and went on to the baggage claim conveyor belts and finally out to the waiting drivers.  Chris immediately spotted my name on a piece of paper and we introduced ourselves to our driver.

We followed him to the garage to a waiting VW bus and got our first glimpse of Istanbul.  The first thing we learned was: “do not drive in Istanbul”!  Not only are the signs in Turkish, but it’s every driver to himself!  There are very few stop signs or traffic lights and no “yield” signs.  It was like an amusement park ride with the car moving at a fast speed, cutting off other drivers, and taking over the road. We had finally made it to Istanbul!  What a ride!  What a welcome!

Anatolia Trip – Genesis

July 12th, 2010

In exactly three weeks I will be in Istanbul, Turkey!  I can’t wait!!  This trip has been in my heart and mind for many years, but the concept became a reality this past winter.  The story actually begins with my Armenian grandparents.  They were born and raised in distant villages in Eastern Turkey, in the region still known as Anatolia.  They were survivors of the Armenian Genocide of 1915, and their meeting in the United States was the result of the deportation of  one million Armenians from Turkey.  Because of the mass deportation, there are Armenian people currently living in many countries of the world.  My grandparents’ siblings found safety in France where they settled, and joined burgeoning Armenian communities, and became French citizens.  The very strong sense of “family” and of Armenian identity was exhibited by my grandparents and their  extended families who maintained communication with each other over thousands of miles with little hope of ever seeing each other again.

In this century, my extended family has continued for five generations and today, I have almost two hundred cousins on both sides of the Atlantic.  The connection with our “French Family” has endured time and distance and I am in contact with many of my “French Cousins” on a regular basis.  The modern technological advances of telephones and email have made communication much easier and faster!

Recently, I learned that several of my cousins share the same dream I have to visit the villages of our grandparents in Anatolia! An American uncle and aunt made the trip to Eastern Turkey with their French cousins about 15 years ago. The group of four flew from Istanbul to Sivas and rented a car on their own.  The intrepid travelers drove out of the city to the rural areas, found their parents’ villages, and spoke to local people.  The single great advantage they had, besides courage and desire, was that one of the French cousins spoke fluent Turkish. Originally, all the Armenians who lived in Turkey spoke Turkish as well as Armenian, and some people also spoke Farsi and Arabic.

Last winter, I sent a general email to all the family members in my contact list regarding a trip to Eastern Turkey.  I received many replies: several positives and many regrets.  If nothing else, I thought, I set the wheels in motion.  Timing was a major issue because several of my cousins are teachers.  Spring and summer are the best seasons to visit that part of the world because it is very hot and humid in summer and icy cold in winter.  It was decided that summer vacation was the best time for most of the cousins for this trip.

Two of my French cousins, my grandmother’s nieces, who live in Lyon, had previously traveled with a group led by a guide who lives in California.  Claudine and Astrig sent his email address to me and I wrote to him.  Armen Aroyan has been leading groups of people of the Armenian diaspora on tours to Turkey, Armenia, Jerusalem, Syria, and Jordan for the past 19 years! The groups visit historical and current Armenian churches, villages of Armenian ancestors, and other Armenian sights. Armen said he would guide our group of 12 cousins to the villages of our grandparents and to other important historical places in Anatolia.  He will hire an air conditioned van with driver and we will stay at hotels in larger cities in Eastern Turkey. Armen said he would be able to conduct our tour beginning on August 11th in Istanbul!

Hello from the Gallivanting Grandma!

May 4th, 2010

Welcome to my new blog!  This is so exciting!!  I don’t know where to start.  Oh well, here goes!  I’ll start at the beginning, which is actually “the end.”

In 37 work-days I will retire from 30 plus years of teaching and enter the world of “retirement.”  So, this is the end of my career as a “teacher” and the beginning of my life as a retired person.  A retiree?   A free person?   A wanderer on the sea of life?  Perhaps, but definitely the Gallivanting Grandma!!!

St. Petersburg: Peter and Paul Cathedral

July 26th, 2009

July 26, 2009

There were many tourists around the Church of Our Savior on Spilled Blood. The church was constructed on the site where Emperor Alexander II was assassinated in 1881:

The Monument to Catherine the Great was finished in 1873. Her reign was known as the “golden age” of Russia, and she was adored by the people.

We rode across the bridge to The Peter & Paul Fortress which was the original fortification of St. Petersburg built in 1703 by Peter the Great.

The fortress served as a prison in the 18th century but was converted to a museum in 1924. Part of the complex includes Peter and Paul Cathedral which was the burial place of most of the Russian tzars.

The remains of Czar Nicholas II and his family were re-interred in the cathedral in 1998, the 80th anniversary of their deaths. Nicholas was the last Russian Emperor. He and his family were executed in 1918.

We explored the fortress and took pictures of the sandy beach below the fortification walls.

One of two Rostral Columns on the end of Vasilyevsky Island which were constructed in 1810 to mark where the Neva River splits into two channels.

Beautiful architecture in St. Petersburg includes the 1877 Ciniselli Circus:

We had a great time in St. Petersburg. It’s a wonderful city to visit!