Gallivanting Grandma

Thursday – February 14, 2019     Happy Valentine’s Day!

We spent a quiet night aboard The Mojito in Luxor – the ancient capital of Thebes – on the east bank of the Nile River. Today we were scheduled to visit the huge Karnak Temple Complex. This is a vast open-air museum which is still undergoing extensive restoration.

What distinguishes Karnak from other ancient Egyptian sites and temples is the length of time it was built and used. Construction began in about 2055BC and continued until about 100AD; from the Egyptian Middle Kingdom into the Ptolemaic period. Therefore, the temple is a hodgepodge of ancient architectural designs.

According to Wikipedia, “Approximately thirty pharaohs contributed to the buildings, enabling it to reach a size, complexity, and diversity not seen elsewhere. Few of the individual features of Karnak are unique, but the size and number of features are overwhelming.”

One highlight of the complex is the Hypostyle Hall, which is an area of 50,000 square feet which contains 134 massive columns.  The diameter of each column is more than ten feet.

The Hypostyle Hall was begun by King Seti I (1313-1292BC) and was completed by his son Rameses II between 1292BC to 1258BC.

There are four main parts of the Karnak Complex and currently only one part is open to the public. The other sections are under continuous restoration.

Parts of the complex look like ancient ruins and other parts resemble a vast construction site. Karnak reminded me of a gigantic 3-dimensional puzzle.

Exit through the gift shops!

After a few hours of wandering around the Karnak Temple Complex, we left and continued to a papyrus workshop.  I wasn’t interested in purchasing an expensive work of art done on papyrus however I was curious how “paper” was made from the plant.

We watched a demonstration and learned the stalk of the papyrus plant is cut into pieces, soaked, pressed, and ‘woven’ into flat sheets.  Paint is then applied to the papyrus ‘paper.’ Amazing….

We returned to The Mojito for lunch and afterwards, a small group joined Maged for a walk around Luxor. Our first stop was El Souk. The traditional market street for local people is an important part of Egyptian culture. I love outdoor markets!!

It was joy to walk down the narrow streets lined with shops offering a huge variety of interesting goods.

It was feast for the eyes!  And sooo much fun!

Back out onto the main street, I saw the Temple of Luxor across busy modern traffic.

I quickly snapped the photo below as a delivery truck passed by loaded with grain and pulled by a mule. I think the picture ‘says it all’ about modern Egypt.  In the background there was a tourist horse & carriage below ads for modern furniture and electronics posted on modern buildings. In the foreground there was a man wearing the traditional galabeya talking on a cellphone next to three school girls wearing backpacks and sneakers.

Our little group continued down the main street along the corniche on the Nile River. We stopped briefly at a wonderful bookstore which sold English-language books and prints.

Nearby was the famous Winter Palace Hotel where the British Egyptologist Howard Carter and Lord Carnarvon stayed. In 1922, Carter discovered King Tutankhamen’s intact tomb financed by Lord Carnarvon.

We walked up the stairs which leads to the lobby to look around the public spaces. We were greeted by a man playing beautiful soft music on a reed flute. Perhaps it was the ancient instrument called a ney.

The British mystery writer, Agatha Christie, wrote her famous story – Death on the Nile – while staying at the Winter Palace.

We went out on the terrace overlooking the river to sit and have some refreshments as the sun was reaching down over the west bank.

A few people rode a carriage back to our boat, The Mojito.  I chose to walk along the busy corniche.

It had been another incredible day in Egypt!

Wednesday – February 13, 2019

The Mojito spent the night in Kom Ombo and early the next morning our riverboat cruised northward back toward Luxor.  We were now moving with the current. The day was a little overcast, but it didn’t deter the vendors on the river.

It had been after dark a few days ago when we passed through the locks on the Nile River southbound on our way to Aswan. But today we all watched our boat maneuver through the narrow passageway.

It wasn’t quite the magnificent Panama Canal, but nonetheless, fun to watch The Mojito “squeeze” into the lock. Trucks and donkey carts passed over the bridge above us.

Afterwards, Jeff and I settled into comfortable chairs on the top deck and relaxed and watched the ever-changing shoreline of the Nile.

Sometime in the afternoon, Maged called us to visit “the Bridge” and give our regards to the captain of The Mojito.  He was an older gentleman who had worked his way up the ranks of Nile River boats since his youth.  He had started with rowboats and feluccas, then skippered larger dahabiyas and other motor boats.  He has been piloting and steering large commercial tourist boats for the last 15 years.

It was interesting to see the Bridge and the crew’s ‘bird’s-eye view.’  The captain sat with his legs folded beneath him on a high wooden chair.  As our group entered the Bridge, he smiled but kept his intense gaze on the river.

Tonight, we had a special dinner of duck prepared by the very proud chefs. Pigeon had also been on the menu another night.

The entertainment for the evening was a three-piece musical ensemble playing for a belly dancer and a Whirling Dervish.

The sunset over the west bank of the Nile River tonight was spectacular!

Tuesday – February 12, 2019

Today was our day to sail on a felucca across the Nile to the Botanical Garden on Kitchener’s Island.  The basic structure of the felucca hasn’t changed since the time of the Pharaohs.  They are heavy wooden open-deck boats complete with canvas shelters to block out the searing desert sun.  Made for sailing over shallow waters, feluccas don’t have a stationary keel, instead they have a center plate that can be raised over sandbars or low depths.

There’s no motor on a felucca, so one of the two-man crew members lowers the heavy canvas sail and they sail into the dock.  After the group boarded our felucca, a man on land pushed the bow of the boat out into the river.  The current took the boat downstream a bit while one man untied the heavy hemp ropes.  Then the other man joined him to hoist the heavy sail.  Notice they’re both barefooted:

What a treat!  It was a crystal clear day with a fresh cool breeze.  Perfect for a sail on the Nile.  As the wind filled the sail, one of the men walked aft to steer with the huge tiller.

After sailing for a while, one of the crew took out a drum and began to play and sing Nubian folk songs.  He taught us some words and we all clapped to the beat and joined in the chorus.  Great fun!!

We arrived at El Nabatat Island aka Kitchener’s Island and said goodbye to the crew.  I could have stayed on the felucca all day!  The island was gifted to Lord Kitchener, the British Counsul-General in Egypt, when he served from 1911-1914.

Kitchener transformed the small island into a paradise of exotic plants and trees from tropical places around the world.  What a surprise!  The garden was beautiful!

The island was later used as a government research station. Today, it is the Aswan Botanical Garden and enjoyed by local people and tourists.

It was a lovely peaceful garden with rare trees and many chirping birds.  A market of craftspeople and vendors was set up at the far end of the island.

Below is a photo looking south from the Botanical Garden:

After we walked through the garden, we boarded a Nile River motorboat to cruise around Elephantine Island and explore the shallow parts of the cataract.

Elephantine Island is another island in the Nile River near the city of Aswan.  The island’s name comes from either the shape of the island or from the large boulders along the banks which resemble elephants.

Scenes from the Nile River:

Two teen-age boys paddled up to our motorboat and sang a variety of songs in several languages: English, French,German, Spanish, etc.  Entertaining and very enterprising!

After a while, we returned to the Mojito and relaxed onboard while the crew prepared to cruise north back toward Kom Ombo.

The sun was low in the western sky and we enjoyed the scenery along the river.

Kom Ombo is an agricultural village of approximately 60,000 people and the location of the Ptolemaic Temple of Kom Ombo.  Built between 180 – 47 BC, it is unique because it honors two sets of gods.  The southern half of the temple was dedicated to the crocodile god Sobek and the northern half honors the falcon god Haroeis, also known as Horus.

The Mojito slowly docked along the quay between two other riverboats.  The sun was setting as we climbed the steps up to the Temple of Kom Ombo.

We took as many photos as we could in the warm fading light.  Then joined our group to hear Maged, the tour leader, explain the important features of the temple.

Kom Ombo Temple was an imposing site and the location above the river was superb.  We had another incredible day on the River Nile.  Aswan was a lovely international city with many interesting sights and activities.  The ship had turned around and were cruising north back toward Luxor.  Time was slipping away but we were having an unforgettable adventure!

Monday – February 11, 2019

The Egyptian Russian Friendship Monument – photo below – is called “The Lotus Tower” and commemorates Russia’s involvement in the construction of the Aswan Dam:

We were lucky to have another bright sunny day with a cool breeze.  We had an early start to drive to the Aswan High Dam and look around at the technological achievement of the dam which has had a significant effect on the economy and culture of Egypt over many years.

The Dam was built between 1960 and 1970 to replace the original Low Dam.  The objectives were to better control seasonal flooding of the Nile, provide increased water storage for irrigation, and to generate hydroelectricity for the growing population of Egypt.

For thousands of years, the annual flooding of the Nile River caused natural nutrients and minerals to enrich the soil of the floodplains and the delta which made the Nile Valley ideal for farming.  However, the flooding was unpredictable and varied from year to year.  With the High Dam, floods could be controlled and water stored for later release over multiple years in the case of drought.

Afterwards, we drove downstream from Aswan Dam and Lake Nassar to a pier in the reservoir.  Motorboats waited to take tourists out to Agilkia Island to visit the Temple of Philae.

Philae was originally located near the first cataract of the Nile.  Cataracts are shallow parts of a river which contain many large boulders and rocks jutting out of the water.

The temple complex was dismantled and moved to Agilkia Island as part of the UNESCO Nubia Campaign Project protecting the ancient site before completion of the High Dam.

Philae was said to be one of the burial places of the god Osiris – god of the underworld, afterlife, and rebirth.  The oldest temple which was built to honor the god Isis was constructed in 380-362BC.  The other ruins date from the Ptolemaic Kingdom: 282-145BC.

On our way back to the boat, we stopped at an ancient Egyptian stone quarry which is now a tourist attraction called the “unfinished obelisk.”  The obelisk was ordered to be carved by Hatshepsut about 1500BC, but it began to crack while craftsmen were carving it out of the bedrock.  They abandoned it and left it here ever since.

It was interesting to see one of the quarries which had been used by ancient Egyptians to build their temples.  A small craft market was nearby.

Our bus drove through the city of Aswan on our way back to the riverboat:

We enjoyed a relaxing afternoon and evening on the deck of The Mojito.  As the sun set there was a flurry of activity on the river and we watched the boats move about.

There was an incredible sunset over the west bank of the Nile River:

Sunday – February 10, 2019

Last night The Mojito docked on the west bank of the Nile River near the city of Eduf, Egypt and this morning we awoke to a brilliant, crisp, clear sunny day.

We climbed up the stairs to the riverside corniche.  There was a clamor of carriage drivers yelling for attention to be chosen to drive our group to the Temple of Horus.  Two passengers for each weathered horse-drawn carriage; we were assigned to #468.

Our driver, Ahmed, smiled and helped us into the carriage and we were off in a caravan of American tourists clomping down the main streets of Edfu!

Edfu is an Egyptian city with a population of about 60,000 people.  It was fun riding through the village in the carriage although it was so early that many of the shops were closed.

A bakery:

Spice shop:

We arrived at the Temple of Horus and Ahmed parked his horse & carriage next to the others.

The Temple of Horus which was built between 237BC and 57BC, is the second largest temple in Egypt and one of the best preserved ancient monuments.  Preservation was possible because sand had covered the site and, over many centuries, houses had been built on top of the temple.

The huge pylons that stand at the entrance to the temple were decorated with battle scenes of King Ptolemy VIII during the Greco-Roman period in Egyptian history.

The temple was dedicated to the falcon god Horus.  Ancient Egyptians believed the temple was built on the site of the mythical battle between Horus and Seth.

Ahmed was waiting for us after we finished exploring the Temple.  We climbed into the carriage and enjoyed another fun ride through Edfu.

Edfu was now bustling with people, cars, wagons, and tiny three-wheeled jitneys.  It was market day.  Shops were open and vendors were everywhere.

Afterwards we enjoyed lunch onboard The Mojito, while the crew let go its lines from the dock and brought them aboard.  We cast off and the riverboat followed the channel markers in the Nile and we continued cruising southward.

We sat out on the top deck, chatted with our fellow travelers, and watched the beautiful Nile riverbank pass us by.

There was an amazing assortment of commercial and tourist boats on the river:

Some time in the afternoon, one of the chefs appeared on the top deck and gave us a cooking demonstration of how to make babaganoush – a delicious Middle-Eastern dish made from eggplants:

The head chef demonstrated how to carve a large gourd for display:

Time passed quickly and we arrived at the village of Kom Ombo, thirty miles north of Aswan.

Here’s a photo of The Mojito docking in front of two other river boats:

This was an unscheduled stop to let a small group of travelers ashore.  We planned to return to visit the Temple of Kom Ombo in a few days on our way back up the Nile.  The Mojito at its dock:

We had an hour to go ashore to explore on our own.  A bridal couple posed for photographs in front of the temple:

Local kids gathered around the couple and a loud percussion band played music as family members gathered at a restaurant below the temple.  It was a lively scene!

We explored the market which had been set up along the riverside.  We both bought galabiyas – the traditional Egyptian garment native to the Nile Valley – for our upcoming “Galabiya Party” on the boat.

We experienced another amazing day cruising down the Nile River.  Tomorrow we’ll be in Aswan.