Erubuni: Old and New

July 26th, 2013

Friday – July 26, 2013

It was another hot sunny day in Yerevan.  The daytime temperatures this week ranged between 38 to 42 degrees Celsius.  Only mad-dogs and tourists were out during the heat of the day.  Throughout the city there are cheap efficient official and unofficial taxis.  To go from one corner of Yerevan to another, the typical fare is between 700 to 1000 Drams which is about $1.70 to $2.44 per ride.  Before getting into a taxi, a tourist tells the driver the destination and asks the price in order to prevent surprises at the destination.  In my brief taxi experiences, all the drivers were honest and helpful.  

King Argishti I of Urartu

This morning we took a taxi to the Erebuni Fortress and Museum which is located on the outskirts of Yerevan.  Erebuni was founded by the Urartian King Argishti I in 782 B.C.  It was one of several fortresses built along the northern Urartian border to serve as a military stronghold and became an important political and cultural center of the kingdom.  The name Yerevan is derived from Erebuni.

Entrance to the Erubuni Fortress Museum

The fortress was built on the top of a high hill known as “Arin Berd” and was surrounded by 30 – 40 foot stone walls.  King Argishti constructed a grand palace, a royal assembly hall, a temple, living quarters, dormitories, and storerooms.  Successive Urartian kings made Erebuni their place of residence during their military campaigns against northern invaders.

Urartu Artifacts

Excavations of the fortress began in 1952 by an international team and continue today.  The museum houses many Urartian artifacts which were uncovered during excavations, including ceramic jars, bracelets, beads, drinking vessels, helmets, silver coins, and arrows.  Stones with carved cuneiform inscriptions were also found at the site.

Interior of the Erubuni Fortress Museum

Artifacts From the Excavations

View of Yerevan From the Fortress

Diorama of Erubuni Fortress

Walking Around The Fortress Wall

Greeting Hall

Walls were decorated with colorful frescoes depicting human figures, gods, geometric and floral designs.

Continuing Up Into the Fortress

Foundation Stones

Another View Over Yerevan

Archeological Site

Archeologists at Work

Diorama of Current Archeological Plans

Iranian Graduate Student

Painstaking Archeological Work

It was very hot on the top of the Erubuni hill.  The archeologists took a lunch break and Francoise and I descended to street level.  We found a taxi parked across the street and negotiated a fare to take us back to the center of Yerevan.

Typical Houses Outside Central Yerevan

A Natural ‘Gas Station’

Francoise wanted to find an outdoor market so we settled on The Tashir Market to shop and have lunch.  There are several covered outdoor markets throughout Yerevan.  The taxi driver dropped us off between the modern glass enclosed shopping center and the market.  I asked about a nearby restaurant and was directed to the third floor of the glass building.

Steps Leading to the Modern Tashir Shopping Center

Inside the Tashir Shopping Center

Jewelry Center Toward the Back

There was a brightly lit large room at the back of the first floor of the shopping mall.  We walked in and discovered many rows of small tables with people selling all varieties of expensive jewelry.  There were mainly gold pieces with sparkling gemstones, primarily diamonds.  There is a guard’s hand in the photo above.  He tried to stop me from taking the picture, but wasn’t quick enough.

Tashir ‘Fast Food’ Restaurant

We found a Tashir Pizza chain restaurant on the third floor.  Francoise had a fresh pasta salad and I had roasted vegetables.  We also had two bottles of spring water and coffee for about $8.00 total.

Pictorial Menus

More Traditional Market

Inside the Market

Another View

Dried Fruits and Nuts

Who Needs Bags When You Have Baskets?

Fruit Stalls

Brooms

Mulberries, Raspberries, Figs, Grapes, etc.

Pictures in the Meat Market

Lamb & Beef Section

Cheese Section

Hand-Mixing Cheeses

Behind the Market

Serious Chess Game

Russian Household Goods

Clothing

Lavash Lady

Dried Fruit Arrangements

Riding on the Wings of Tatev

July 25th, 2013

Thursday – July 25, 2013

I slept well and awoke early for our return trip to Yerevan.  It was to be another 12 hour day in the bus with several scenic/historic stops along the way.  Breakfast at the hotel was essentially home-baked bread, cheese, yogurt, a boiled egg, and coffee.

View From the Top

Village on the Edge

Boarding the Wings of Tatev

Roof of the Village

Returning Cable Car

View of Tatev From the Air

Tatev Monastery

Buying Raspberries

Main Church

Storage Room

Another View of the Fortified Monastery

Part of the Wall

Reflections

Waiting

Lunch in the Mountains

Dancing in the Bus

Storm Over the Mountains

Trail to Karahundj

Vast Area of Karahundj

Zorats Karer aka Karahundj

Ancient Rocks

Rock Formations

Posing with the Rocks

More Rocks

Selling Tomatos

Bicyclists

Armenian Countryside

Stepanakert and the Mountainous Region

July 24th, 2013

Wednesday – July 24, 2013

I slept well in the Heghnar Hotel and the group rallied early for breakfast in the main dining room. The hotel was comprised of three buildings with a lovely garden overlooking a green valley.  Unfortunately, the day was overcast and humid but cooler than Yerevan. 

Main Building of the Heghnar Hotel

3rd Building of the Heghnar Hotel

Garden With Fig Trees & Flowers

Other Side of the Hotel Wall

New Church in Shoushi

Ghazanchetsots Cathedral & Bell Tower

Chandelier 

Tourists With Tank

Parliament Building in Stepanakert

 Our Tour Guide, Alla

The Singing Fountain in the Central Park in Stepanakert

Francoise With the Home Boys

We Visited the Museum

Guided Tour in English

Historic Artifacts of Karabagh

Tradesmen Playing Tavlou in the Street

The Covered Market in Stepanakert

Smiling Seller in the Market

Potatoes, Dried Beans & Spirits

Livestock in the Market

Fresh Fruits & Vegetables

Herbs

Potatoes

Young Fish Monger

On the Road

Gandzasar

Opposite View of Gandzasar

A Wedding at Gandzasar

Hotel on the Road

Lunch al Fresco

Roaring Lion Behind the Hotel

Ruins of an 18th Century Fortress near Askeran

Another Section of the Ruins

Askeran Fortress

Tigranakert of Artsakh

Entrance to Tigranakert

Interior Courtyard

Looking Down

Archeological Site

Looking Out From Tigranakert

Me & Francoise in Front of Monument

On The Road to Karabagh

July 23rd, 2013

Tuesday, July 23, 2013

Khor Virap

Walking Up to the Monastery

Steps Up to Khor Virap

Church and Bell Tower

The Courtyard

Entrance to the Underground Prison

Stairs Leading Down to the Prison

Main Altar

View of Ararat Valley From Khor Virap

View of Church

Ararat Valley With Both Peaks of Ararat Mountain

Through Vayots Dzor

Fruit Stand Along the Way

Landscape From the Bus

First View of Noravank Monastery

Parked Hyur Tour Group Buses

Pilgramage to Noravank

The Valley Below Noravank

Noravank

Tourists Exploring Noravank

Underground Storage

Interior of Church

Al Fresco Lunch in the Valley

After Lunch

Mountain Village

Town of Goris

Check Point – Border Crossing Into Karabagh

Evening Over the Karabagh Mountains

Arrival at Heghnar Hotel in Stepanakert

Second Week in Armenia

July 22nd, 2013

Monday, July 22, 2013

The Europe Hotel was filled with several members of an extended family who arrived in Yerevan from several different countries to attend the wedding of a cousin.  The wedding took place yesterday and lasted late into the night, so the dining room was empty this morning.  This gave me an opportunity to take photos of the breakfast room.

One End of the Breakfast Room

The Other Side of the Breakfast Room

The Lobby

The Business Center

I had read that the museums in Yerevan were closed on Mondays, but one directory stated that the Erebuni Fortress was open.  It’s located on the outskirts of the city which is too far to walk.  We found a taxi on Republic Square and negotiated a price of 1000 Drams.  The driver was a congenial older man who chatted with us and waved to many friends in the streets along the way.

Erebuni Museum

Unfortunately, the Erebuni Museum was closed and we had to find another taxi to return to the center of town.  We asked him to take us to a busy street near Republic Square because Francoise wanted to find a market which she thought was nearby.

Art Gallery

We found a small private art gallery which so we entered and looked at the paintings in the collection.  It was well past lunchtime, so we walked to the Yerevan Tavern which had been recommended to us by Gagik’s wife, Anna.  There were many unusual items on the menu and food was very good.

Interior of the Yerevan Tavern

Street Art

Tomorrow, we were planning to go on a bus trip with Hyur Tours to Karabakh.  Armenians refer to the region as “Artsakh” which was the ancient Armenian name for the provence.  Karabakh is the remote mountainous area which serves as a border between Armenia and Azerbaijan.  The two countries fought a bitter war over the region in 1988.  The Nagano-Karabakh Region is not internationally recognized or sanctioned by the United Nations.  At this moment, it is an independent ‘micro-state’ which is closely allied to Armenia.  We spent most of the evening packing and preparing for the three-day adventure.