Thursday December 5, 2019
The main reason for my spur-of-the-moment trip to Paris was to see the Leonardo da Vinci exhibit at the Louvre. I felt lucky to be able to get a timed-ticket for this special winter exhibition. It was a huge undertaking for Louvre museum curators who amassed the largest grouping of da Vinci’s works from collections and museums all over the world. However, weeks ago when I ordered my ticket on-line, I never anticipated a major French railroad worker’s strike – la greve – which was scheduled to begin today!
My hotel, le Relais du Louvre, is located across the street from the museum so I wasn’t too worried about getting to the exhibit. But, all national and international trains and the Paris Metro stopped running today. Teachers, air-traffic controllers, hospital workers, some police planned to demonstrate. Many businesses, shops, and museums were closed in solidarity and also because employees couldn’t get to work.
I crossed the street to the Louvre and happily discovered that the Louvre was open! I had read that “only” 5,000 tickets per day were sold for da Vinci’s exhibit and it was crowded with tourists. I joined the line to enter the exhibition and spent several enjoyable hours among the works of the greatest artist and genius who ever lived.
Leonardo da Vinci only painted 15 paintings, but he completed many beautiful drawings and sketches. He also filled notebooks with mechanical, botanical, and biological drawings, as well as scientific designs and concepts. He was a sculptor, inventor, architect, and an engineer. His conceptions of flying machines, a parachute, gliders, helicopter, and other innovations are well documented.
da Vinci lived in France during the last years of his life and died in the Loire Valley town of Amboise in 1519. It was an excellent exhibit!
Although the Louvre was open to the public, I discovered that due to la greve many galleries were closed and there were no ticket-takers at the main entrances to the three main sections. Free admission today! Although many employees were unable to get to work, the museum opened popular tourist galleries: French paintings and the Mona Lisa.
I left the museum through the wonderful “skylight” designed by I.M. Pei, la Pyramide Inversee, and explored the Carrousel du Louvre. This is an underground shopping mall which extends from the museum to the Tuileries Gardens.
Looking across the Tuileries Gardens, the top of the Eiffel Tower was hidden by fog:
There was a Christmas Market set up in the gardens along rue de Rivoli with regional food, crafts, and carnival rides:
Although the weather was chilly and damp, I think it’s a great time to visit Paris because of many Christmas lights and decorations. “The City of Lights” really seemed to be glowing!
In the old days French restaurants were open only during specific hours and Parisians seemed to eat late. Today, many eateries are open all-day every-day. I had a light supper at Brasserie Loup on rue du Louvre, a short walk from my hotel. It was warm and cozy inside le Loup. There was a lively young crowd and a friendly server who enjoyed practicing English.
It was a good ending to an amazing day!