Monday December 9, 2019
It’s amazing how quickly a week in Paris slips away! Early December proved to be a good time to visit the French capital. The weather was mild, there were fewer tourists, and sparkling Christmas lights were everywhere. I saved the saddest sight for my last day.
Last April there was a massive devastating fire in the attic of the 850 year old Cathedral of Notre Dame which nearly destroyed the iconic landmark. The roof and spire collapsed but most of the treasured relics were spared. The entire area around the cathedral is fenced off. Scaffolding has been erected and the flying buttresses were supported by huge joists. The French government has pledged restoration and completion in five years. I hope so…
Le Palais de la Citi, which was built as a royal palace in the 14th century, is also located on Ile de la Cite. La Conciergerie was used as a prison during the French Revolution and Marie-Antoinette was held there before her execution.
The current exhibit in la Conciergerie was about Marie-Antoinette. I saw the queen’s prison cell which later was turned into something of a shrine. The exhibit claimed that Marie-Antoinette has become popular recently due to modern media and commercialism.
The incredibly beautiful Sainte-Chapelle is hidden among government buildings down the street from la Conciergerie. The small 13th century chapel was commissioned by King Louis IX to house his collection of relics and is known for its exceptional stained glass windows. Even in the winter light, they glowed.
Le Tour de l’Horloge, which is one of the towers of le Palais de la Cite built about 1370, was the first public clock in Paris.
It’s impossible to walk around Paris and not bump into history. La Fontaine du Chatelet aka la Fontaine de la Victoire was built in 1806 to provide fresh drinking water to the neighborhood and to celebrate Napoleon Bonaparte’s victories.
This was a floating restaurant under dark clouds on the Seine:
Eventually, I made my way across the river to the Left Bank and walked to the oldest church in Paris, l’Eglise de Saint-Germain-des-Pres. The Benedictine Abbey was founded in the 6th century. The current church was dedicated in 1163 and rebuilt over the centuries. Incredible!
The interior of the church was lovely and impressive. A Christmas market encircled the church selling gifts, cookies, hot chocolate, wine, jewelry, and cakes.
It’s so much fun to wander along the old cobblestone alleys and byways of the 6th Arrondissement.
My final dinner in Paris was an unusual treat: Japanese food! Kodawari Ramen – Tsukiji is a fun eatery located in the first arrondissement. Tsukiji is the name of the famous fish market in Tokyo. The restaurant’s decor is a chaotic hodgepodge of Tokyo fish-market finds. The servers were young and enthusiastic and spoke English. Delicious hot noodle soup was perfect on a chilly winter evening! Hard to believe I was in Paris!!
The trains and buses were still not running due the current railroad workers’ strike. This caused some inconvenience this week because my excursions were limited to the central part of Paris. But, on the positive side, it was also good because I had to walk everywhere and I experienced the heart of the city at a leisurely pace, on a more personal level.
I’ll spend tomorrow flying home and be back in New York by late afternoon. My week in Paris confirmed why “The City of Lights” is my favorite city in the world!