Sunday – October 7, 2012
It was raining when we emerged from the subway near Astor Place. I wanted to visit several Open House New York sites in Manhattan today. Our first destination was Edward Hopper’s Studio across from Washington Square Park. Hopper is one of my favorite artists because he captures one moment of time in each of his paintings and expresses a particular mood in vibrant colors.
My Favorite Edward Hopper Painting
Edward Hopper lived and worked with his wife, the artist Josephine Nivison, in the bright studio at One Washington Square North. The studio is on the top floor of one of those beautiful 1840s Greek Revival townhouses that surround the park. Hopper moved into the studio in 1913 and he and his wife lived there until their deaths in 1967.
Entering the Studio
We saw two rooms in the four-story walkup which is now owned by NY University and currently used as academic offices. The studio was sparsely furnished with Hopper’s easel and some other furnishings. Several black and white photos of the artist in his studio hung on the walls. When I attended Washington Irving HS from 1960 to 1963 several blocks north of Washington Square, I had no idea that Edward Hopper was living and painting several blocks away from my high school.
Possessions in the Studio
Hopper’s studio had great lighting from a magnificent roof sky-light on the north side. There were also large windows facing south from which the Hoppers had a beautiful view of Washing Square Park. I knew that part of the park had been used as a burial ground for unknown or indigent people in the early 1800s. Today I learned that 20,ooo people were buried there before the cemetery closed in 1825.
Eastern Side of the NYC Marble Cemetery
We had a quick lunch at a local place and then we walked to the New York City Marble Cemetery on Second Street between 1st and 2nd Avenues. I discovered that there are two Marble Cemeteries a block away from each other. They are “the oldest non-sectarian burial grounds in Manhattan.” The NYC Marble Cemetery was built in 1831 and contains 258 underground marble vaults. It is the place were President James Monroe is buried.
Entrance to the NY Marble Cemetery
The other cemetery is the New York Marble Cemetery which is located on the north side of Second Avenue, between 2nd & 3rd Streets. Both cemeteries are called “marble” cemeteries because of the large underground marble vaults where the deceased are laid to rest. The marble was brought to New York City from the marble quarry in the town of Tuckahoe in Westchester County, not far from where I used to teach. The 12 foot vaults were built ten feet underground to prevent the spread of a yellow fever epidemic ravaging the city in the early 1800s. Both cemeteries are closed most of the year but are open to the public only during Open House New York and one weekend in the spring. They were peaceful little parks in the middle of the noisy city.
Inside the NY Marble Cemetery
Our final destination for the day was a studio loft/apartment in Chinatown. The architect/owner renovated his 750 sq. ft. apartment in a 1900s building on Forsyth Street near Delancy. After walking up to the 5th floor, we had to wait in line for 20 minutes for our guided tour. The apartment was located in a corner of the building with huge windows overlooking the park below. The apartment also had a magnificent view of the buildings of lower Manhattan. From the windows we could see the cranes on top of the Freedom Tower rising above Ground Zero.
Chinatown Tenement
The architect had painted the walls opposite the windows in a bright chartreuse, which contrasted well with the stainless steel appliances. In the bedroom, there was just a bed on the floor and a large modern glass-enclosed shower in one corner. It was a bright and light-filled apartment even on such a dark rainy day as today.
Hide-away Storage
Viewing this apartment was much more interesting than I had expected and I was glad I went to see it. The weather was getting cooler and it was still raining lightly when we left. As we walked toward the subway, we decided to stop at Ceci Cela on 55 Spring St. The patisserie was voted as having the best French croissants in New York City. They have a cozy little back room to enjoy wonderful pastries and cafe au lait.
Fresh-Baked Croissant & Cafe au Lait
Well fortified with a taste of Paris, we crossed the street and rode the subway to Grand Central Station. It was an adventurous day filled with several new and different sights. New York City is an amazing place; it’s forever changing and always surprising. What more do we need in life? I’m looking forward to next year’s Open House New York.