Friday, November 14, 2014 Sunny & 27 degrees F
Morning Light on the Eastern Gate of Khiva
I had missed the tour of the old town of Khiva yesterday, so I was happy to feel better today and participate in the activities. We were scheduled to have a tour of the history museum within the fortress walls then we were free to explore on our own until lunch time. We were directed to meet at another hotel just outside the Western Gate at noon.
Our group entered the former Madrasah which now served as the Museum of Applied Arts. There were antique doors, stamps, tables, blankets, costumes, carpets, tiles and other artifacts which demonstrated the high level of local craftsmen and culture.
It was Friday and Khiva was bustling with tourists and shoppers. There were many tables set out everywhere with crafts and handmade wares for sale.
The group continued to the Pakhlavan Makhmud Mausoleum which is carefully preserved as a national cultural treasure and is a World Heritage Site. It is a religious center formed around the tomb of Khiva’s patron Pahlavan-Mahmud who lived from 1247 until 1326. He was a poet, philosopher and wrestler who was also known as a healer throughout Khiva, Iran, and India.
The Mausoleum was crowded with families and groups of people who had come to pray, as well as local and foreign tourists. There was also a bridal party with a sizeable entourage.
We had a tasty lunch at the Malika Khiva Hotel just outside the Western Gate and then boarded the coach to take us to the Uzbekistan border with Turkmenistan. it was a now-familiar border crossing experience between countries with grim machine-gun armed guards and long waits for visa approvals and stamping our passports. We also had to have our under-arm temperatures taken by a nurse. Then we strolled out of Uzbekistan, crossed the gate toward Turkmenistan, and waited for a mini-van to drive us across the barbed-wired kilometer which separated the countries.
We were met at the border by our local Turkmen guide Gazoul. The group boarded a modern coach bus and continued to the city of Dasoguz (“Dash-house”) for an early dinner. Afterwards we drove to the airport for our flight to the capital city of Turkmenistan: Ashgabat. The sun was setting but from the bus, the buildings in Dasoguz looked very impressive.
Building in Dasoguz, Turkmenistan
We had expected to be on an eight o’clock flight, however plans changed and we were scheduled to leave closer to midnight. The airport was clean and warm and filled with locals, so time passed relatively quickly. Turkmen women wore different clothes from women of the other ‘Stans and it was interesting to see the new fashion of long skirts and high hairpieces covered with beautiful silk scarves.