Sunday, August 23, 2015
We had a free morning so I decided to go shopping with a small group of fellow travelers! Bali is world famous for craftsmanship in wood carving, weaving, silver jewelry, painting, batik, and puppet making, therefore shopping becomes wandering among current artists and craftsman to admire their work and, perhaps, make a little purchase….
There were numerous wood carving shops which created incredible pieces. After browsing through several, we found a master mask-maker whose work was amazing.
We found the shop of a man who painted beautiful designs on real ostrich eggs. He also offered less fragile versions made of carved wood. His children watched as he worked and his mother sold the eggs.
Later we visited several silver jewelry shops, all with many stunning pieces. We watched a silversmith demonstrate his art in the workshop. Notice his foot pedal operating the flame of his torch in the first photo.
Batik shops were numerous and are always interesting to watch the hot-wax procedure.
Balinese markets are bright noisy colorful bazaars which were everywhere selling everything imaginable for tourists and local people.
We had hired a driver and his car for half the day – he was excellent: spoke good English, was patient with us, and was very accommodating. On the way back to the hotel, we saw a smoky area and the driver explained that a ‘mass cremation ceremony’ was underway. After yesterday’s experiences, we all quietly peered out of the window.
In the evening, we were fortunate to be able to visit the compound – home and theater – of a master shadow-puppet maker. Called wayang kulit, the tradition began a thousand years ago. UNESCO designated the art as a Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity and requires its preservation for future generations. I had been introduced to Indonesian shadow-puppets at the NY Museum of Natural History during the 1970’s when my sons were young. What a treat to see a real demonstration!
This was also a unique experience because we were finally able to enter one of the Balinese compounds that I had been observing from the bus since we arrived, and I was very curious about what was inside. The compound contained everything a multi-generational family needed for existence: work space, living space, and places to pray and give offerings to the deities and pay homage to ancestors.
The fifth-generation puppet master’s eyes twinkled as he explained how his puppets were made and the stories of the Hindu epics he performed. He graciously answered our questions about his home and family.
Today, the Master’s sons assist to make the shadow puppets out of carefully chiseled leather. We saw one son demonstrating the process, and another son painted bright-colored details, while several grandchildren quietly watched.
The short performance was magical! The puppet master provided exciting percussion sounds with his foot and dramatically changed his voice with each character while a musician played gamelan music. Great fun!!
We left the compound and returned to Ubud after dark to have dinner at the renowned Cafe Wayan & Bakery which was featured in the memoir and movie, Eat, Pray, Love by Elizabeth Gilbert.
