December 18-20, 2014
42nd Street Looking West
Lobby of The News Building
Fortitude With Wreath
Exhibit at the NYPL
Uzbek Lunch at Taam Tov on 47th Street
Cascade of LED Lights at the International Center of Photography
Selfie with Henri Matisse’s Dancers
Times Square Full of Tourists
Sunday, November 16 2014
Sunday Shopping
Altyn-Asyr Bazaar
Head Scarves
His and Her Hats
Bride’s Shoe
Dresses for Sale
Decorations
Shoppers
Livestock Market
Geese
Camel Market
Wanna Buy a Camel?
Dining in a Yurt
Interior of the Yurt
Invitation
Entertainment
Horse Trainer
Black Beauty
Training
Turkmen Dog
Farewell
Saturday, November 15, 2014
Turkmenbashi’s Family Mausoleum
Former President Niyazov’s Personal Mosque
Another View of the $100 Million Dollar Mosque
Cleaning Woman
Walking to the Ancient Parthian Kingdom of Nisa
Listening to Batyr and Gazoul
Excavations
Gazoul and Batyr
Modern Restaurant for Lunch
Turkmenbashi Monument
Top of Monument in Solid Gold
Another Gold Monument
Close-up
View of Ashkabat From the Bus
Indoor Ferris Wheel
National Museum of History and Ethnography
Entrance of Museum
Looking Out to Ashkabat
Night View
The Temple of Happiness
A New Hotel: the Yyldyz Oteli
Space Age Bus Stop
Friday, November 14, 2014 Sunny & 27 degrees F
Morning Light on the Eastern Gate of Khiva
I had missed the tour of the old town of Khiva yesterday, so I was happy to feel better today and participate in the activities. We were scheduled to have a tour of the history museum within the fortress walls then we were free to explore on our own until lunch time. We were directed to meet at another hotel just outside the Western Gate at noon.
Islam Khodja Minaret
Islom Xo’ Ja Madrasah
Our group entered the former Madrasah which now served as the Museum of Applied Arts. There were antique doors, stamps, tables, blankets, costumes, carpets, tiles and other artifacts which demonstrated the high level of local craftsmen and culture.
Inner Courtyard of the Museum
It was Friday and Khiva was bustling with tourists and shoppers. There were many tables set out everywhere with crafts and handmade wares for sale.
Local Shoppers
The group continued to the Pakhlavan Makhmud Mausoleum which is carefully preserved as a national cultural treasure and is a World Heritage Site. It is a religious center formed around the tomb of Khiva’s patron Pahlavan-Mahmud who lived from 1247 until 1326. He was a poet, philosopher and wrestler who was also known as a healer throughout Khiva, Iran, and India.
Entrance to the Mausoleum
The Mausoleum was crowded with families and groups of people who had come to pray, as well as local and foreign tourists. There was also a bridal party with a sizeable entourage.
Receiving Blessings
Domes and Minarets of Khiva
Unfinished Minaret
Camel for the Tourists
We had a tasty lunch at the Malika Khiva Hotel just outside the Western Gate and then boarded the coach to take us to the Uzbekistan border with Turkmenistan. it was a now-familiar border crossing experience between countries with grim machine-gun armed guards and long waits for visa approvals and stamping our passports. We also had to have our under-arm temperatures taken by a nurse. Then we strolled out of Uzbekistan, crossed the gate toward Turkmenistan, and waited for a mini-van to drive us across the barbed-wired kilometer which separated the countries.
Gazoul in Dashoguz
We were met at the border by our local Turkmen guide Gazoul. The group boarded a modern coach bus and continued to the city of Dasoguz (“Dash-house”) for an early dinner. Afterwards we drove to the airport for our flight to the capital city of Turkmenistan: Ashgabat. The sun was setting but from the bus, the buildings in Dasoguz looked very impressive.
Building in Dasoguz, Turkmenistan
We had expected to be on an eight o’clock flight, however plans changed and we were scheduled to leave closer to midnight. The airport was clean and warm and filled with locals, so time passed relatively quickly. Turkmen women wore different clothes from women of the other ‘Stans and it was interesting to see the new fashion of long skirts and high hairpieces covered with beautiful silk scarves.
On the Way to Ashkabat
Thursday November 13 2014
27 degrees F. – Sunny
We spent the day riding northwest through the sandy Karakum Desert of Uzbekistan between Bukhara and Khiva. This was one of the historical routes of the caravans of The Silk Road. As our coach undulated and bumped along the poor highway, it was easy to imagine how it must have been riding a camel across the sands a thousand years ago to the oasis of Khiva.
Modern Silk Road
Nature Stop in the Desert
After many hours, we stopped for a boxed lunch at a ‘tea house’ in the middle of nowhere. It seemed to be a popular rest-stop along the highway for local people as well. Batir and the Uzbek drivers ordered fish from the menu as we ate our prepared cheese sandwiches which were carried from Buhkara.
Roadside Restaurant
Inside the Tea House
My Box Lunch
Shepherd in the Desert
Section of the Original Ancient Wall of Khiva
With the setting sun, we arrived at the walled fortress of Khiva, Uzbekistan. Our hotel was directly across the road from the East Gate pictured below. Batir told us people who were born within the gates were privileged to live within the fortress. Others had to live outside the walls in newer housing. I dropped off my luggage and went out to take photos in the fading light.
View From the Hotel
Main Passageway Within the Walls
Old and New
Adobe Houses – Earthen Streets
Otojonboy Madrasasi
Shergozixon Madrasasi 1726
As daylight faded, I returned to the hotel for dinner and a good night’s rest. Unfortunately, when I awoke the next morning I was a victim of “Timur’s Revenge.” I spent most of the day in my room and missed the tour of Khiva. I emerged later in the afternoon feeling better and had soup for dinner. During the evening meal, we were entertained by a local family who sang and danced regional Uzbeki folk music.
Uzbeki Folk Music and Dance