Tajikistan in the Rain

November 7th, 2014

November 6, 2014   Raining and chilly

We had an excellent early breakfast at the Tashkent Palace Hotel which included great croissants, kim chee, good coffee, and tasty fruit. There was also freshly made omelets, and a variety of cereals and yogurts. Then we boarded the bus with overnight bags and drove to the Uzbekistan-Tajikistan border. Our destination was the northern city, Khujand, which is the second largest city in Tajikistan.

IMG_0324Duty Free Shop at the Border

IMG_0349Syr Darya River

IMG_0374Friday Shoppers in the Rain

IMG_0379Outdoor Square

IMG_0377Rain on the Mountains

DSC_7182Riding Across the Square

DSC_7221Entrance to the Panshanbe Bazaar

IMG_0384Interior of Bazaar

IMG_0386Mother and Daughter

IMG_0388Melon Man

DSC_7188Selling Meat

DSC_7190Yogurt Balls – an Acquired Taste

IMG_0383Magazines

DSC_7194Spices

DSC_7224Madrasa

DSC_7225Mosque

DSC_7226Main Mosque

DSC_7229Entrance to Mosque

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IMG_0396Historical Museum of the Sughd Region

IMG_0398Interior of Museum

IMG_0399Marble Mosaics

IMG_0401Ancient Statue

IMG_0403Gallery of Museum

IMG_0423Fortification

IMG_0430The Sugd Hotel

Unfortunately, we spent only one day and one night in Khujand, Tajikistan. We only had a small peek at the ancient culture in this region. Our guide stated that the Sughd region was a former religious center and a major stop on the Silk Road.

 

Tashkent, Uzbekistan

November 5th, 2014

Wednesday, November 5, 2014
The weather was clear and cold at 3:30AM when the wake-up call sounded. The Golden Dragon Hotel had prepared a full breakfast for us and it seemed that the entire staff rallied for our departure.
It was only an hour and ten minute flight and with a time change, we arrived in Tashkent in just a few minutes after adjusting watches.
Flying over the mountains at dawn:

DSC_7111View From the Plane

Tashkent, which means place of stones, was a very pleasant surprise. It seemed like a modern, well planned upscale city. The Lotte Tashkent Palace Hotel was elegant and very comfortable. They served real espresso and cappuccino in the lobby.

DSC_7123Tashkent Palace Hotel

Tashkent was an impressive city with modern buildings and broad avenues.

IMG_0153City of Friendship and Peace

IMG_0160Typical Apartment Building

We checked into the hotel to freshen up and I walked across the street to see the park and the neighborhood.

DSC_7122In the Park Across from the Hotel

DSC_7118Might be a University

DSC_7117View From my Balcony

DSC_7126Our Golden Dragon Coach in Uzbekistan

Unfortunately, the weather was chilly and overcast and drizzled on and off during our one day in Tashkent.

DSC_7131Radio Tower

DSC_7132Monument

DSC_7137Museum

DSC_7138Lovely Park Over the River

DSC_7139School Children Posing for their Teacher

DSC_7171Eternal Flame with Mourning Mother

DSC_7144Monument to the Devastating Earthquake of April 26, 1966

DSC_7177Walk in the Park

DSC_7175Stork Statue

We walked into Tashkent Metro System to take the subway one station.  It was clean and modern, but no photos were allowed.

IMG_0189Walking Into the Metro

The Golden Dragon Coach met us at the next station and drove us to the Tarona Restaurant for a delicious Uzbek lunch.

IMG_0216Entrance to Tarona Restaurant

IMG_0220Interior

IMG_0226Stage with Instruments

IMG_0219Fresh Uzbek Break

IMG_0221Yummy Stew

Across the street from the restaurant there was a school with an inviting playground out front. Unfortunately, school wasn’t in session.

IMG_0229Playground

IMG_0270Remembrance

IMG_0269One Book of Names

IMG_0285Romanov House

IMG_0237Craftsmen’s Home & Studio

IMG_0245Ceramics

DSC_7165Hand Painting

IMG_0241Tools of the Trade

IMG_0253Collection of Hats

Just a few words about Uzbek money: $1.00 equals about 2,388 Uzbekistani Soms so you have a huge wad of money in your pocket. The collection of 1000 Som bills below is only worth $50.00  Uzbek traders deal in dollars and euros and believe it or not were always honest in their dealings.  They expect bargaining so the initial price is higher than they plan to take.  If you don’t bargain, as I forgot to do once, they give a “discount.”

IMG_0163Uzbek Soms

IMG_0290Restaurant for Dinner

 

 

Bishkek Day

November 4th, 2014

Tuesday November 4, 2014     Bright sunny day: 48 – 62 degrees F.
Bishkek is the largest city and capital of the Kyrgyz Republic. It’s a relatively new city, since it was founded in 1825. It is located in the northern part of the country and was on the historic caravan trading routes for centuries. Today it is clogged with traffic and has many cement block buildings left over from Soviet times. Our guide told us that Kyrgyzstan is considered to be the most democratic country in Central Asia.

IMG_0049Flag of Kyrgyzstan

The main symbol on the flag is the golden sun with two sets of three lines which represents the crown of a traditional Kyrgyz yurt. The sun’s 40 rays represent the 40 Kyrgyz tribes which were unified by the epic hero Manas to fight against the invading Mongols.

After breakfast, the group went to visit the State History Museum. The bus parked on a back street so we could see the statue of Lenin which was located behind the museum.

DSC_7022Lenin in a Typical Pose

We stopped at another monument which had been built to honor the fifteen countries of the Soviet Union. Then we continued to walk around the impressive building onto a grand boulevard.

IMG_0036Current President’s Offices

The museums, government buildings, and wide streets were built during soviet times. Since independence in 1991, the president and parliament currently occupy the offices.

DSC_7057History Museum with a Statue of Manas

DSC_7061Manas has a Commanding View of the Mountains

DSC_7049Guards

There were two Soviet-looking guards standing outside the history museum. At first, everyone thought they were mannequins, but Batir informed us that they were real men. I took a photograph.  Later we saw the ‘Changing of the Guard’ when they stepped down.

IMG_0056Interior of the History Museum

IMG_0067Yurt Exhibit at the Top of the Stairs

The yurt on display gave visitors an idea of how the nomads lived. The Kyrgyz people were nomadic throughout pre-historic times until the czar forced the people to settle and Bishkek (first called Pishpeck) was founded in the early 1800s.

IMG_0057The Group Learning About the Yurt

IMG_0065Ceiling Mural

IMG_0075Historic Needlework

IMG_0082The Epic of Manas

The National Art Gallery was next on our list. Here we saw beautiful Kyrgyz works of art from the early 20th century and exhibits of contemporary art.  Unfortunately, photography was not permitted in the gallery.

DSC_7074The National Gallery

IMG_0086Abacus on the Counter

IMG_0087My Favorite Exhibit

About one o’clock, we were driven to a modern upscale restaurant, named Sheep, for a fantastic lunch.

IMG_0090A Restaurant Named ‘Sheep’

IMG_0096Interior of the Restaurant

IMG_0097Another View of the Interior of ‘Sheep’

IMG_0094Delicious Muffin

After lunch we went to a residential neighborhood to see a demonstration of felt making, which is a speciality craft in this region of the world. The woman was a representative of her village cooperative of craftswomen who make fabric arts. She was very entertaining and actively engaged all of us with music and movement in making a lovely piece. Then we had an opportunity to purchase the crafts she had brought from her village.

DSC_7084Silk Scarves

DSC_7079Felt Maker

IMG_0111Making Felt

DSC_7094Helper

The last place we visited today was The Mourning Mother with an eternal flame. This is a memorial to the tens of thousands of Kyrgyz soldiers who died during the Second World War fighting in the Soviet Russian army.

IMG_0137Eternal Flame

DSC_7106Road Scholars with a Bridal Party

I opted not to go to dinner this evening because I had eaten a very big lunch. It was good to have some time to myself and I packed and rested up for tomorrow when we leave for Tashkent, Uzbekistan.

Touring Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan

November 3rd, 2014

Monday November 3, 2014      Partly cloudy 42 – 59 degrees F.
I slept soundly at the peaceful Golden Dragon Hotel. Interesting variety at breakfast – sorry no photos.

IMG_0001Marble Entrance to the Hotel

IMG_0003Golden Dragon Hotel with Our Coach

We rallied in the lobby for a nine o’clock departure to Tomak village to visit the International University of Central Asia. We had an interview with the American president of the college, John Clark, and had a tour of the main building.

DSC_6850Entrance to the International University of Central Asia

IMG_9891Students and Teacher in a French Class

IMG_9893Librarian

Next we visited Burana Tower which is one of the few existing watch towers remaining from the ancient Silk Road across Kyrgyzstan.

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DSC_6906Never Far From the Tien Shen Mountains

DSC_6884Gift Shop in a Yurt

IMG_9902Field of Bal-bals

The tower complex include a small museum building and a gift shop located inside a yurt. Outside was a field with a collection of carved stone figures called bal-bals. The statues, some dating to the 6th Century, are believed to be memorials to honor dead warriors. They are considered ‘protectors, preservers, and watchers of the land’.

IMG_9897Our Local Guide with Bal-bals

IMG_9901Archeological Site on Top of a Mound

IMG_9907Small Museum With Gift Shop

DSC_6909Burana Tower

DSC_6913On the Tower

Close to Burana Tower there was a small village where a family had constructed a dining room for tourists because there were no restaurants for many miles. Our coach drove down the unpaved road to the house.

IMG_9949Village Road

DSC_6941Family Property

They built an L-shaped building with lovely, ornate dining room along the sun-lit front and a small kitchen to prepare and serve food to visitors.

DSC_6930Family House

The extended family lived in the blue and white house. Our host lived with his son and daughter-in-law and their young children. As was the custom, four older daughters lived with their husband’s families.

IMG_9950Neighbor’s House

DSC_6926Children Playing Cards

DSC_6933Formal Luncheon

IMG_9929Hostess and Daughter

DSC_6935Homemade Salad, Preserves, Yoghurt, and Bread

DSC_6936Baked and Fried Bread

IMG_9943Our Host

After lunch we went to a nearby field to watch a demonstration of Kyrgyz horse games. The people are excellent horsemen and enjoy displaying their talents.

DSC_6951Local Boys and Donkey

DSC_6954Introducing the Horsemen

DSC_6958Picking Up the Flag

DSC_6983Melee

DSC_6979Intense Competition

IMG_9974The Victors

IMG_9972Take a Bow

 We returned to the hotel to freshen up. Then we went out in the evening to a local Georgian restaurant in Bishkek where we enjoyed a Kyrgyz cultural performance of music and a recitation of part of the epic poem about Manas.

IMG_0005Entrance to the Restaurant

IMG_0006Chicken, Mushrooms, Cabbage & Spices

IMG_0032Lamb Stew

IMG_0012Folk Music

IMG_0020Reciting the Epic Poem, Manas

IMG_0024Musician

IMG_0015Reed Instrument

We returned to the hotel about nine PM to rest up for another busy day tomorrow.

 

Kazakhstan to Kyrgyzstan

November 2nd, 2014

Sunday – November 2, 2014     Sunny & Clear & Cool
The group and I had an early breakfast at the hotel. We gathered all our luggage and boarded the bus for a nine o’clock departure. These were our last hours in the country of Kazakhstan and the impressive city of Almaty. We were on our way to a falconry demonstration in the foothills of the impressive mountains to the south. The day was sunny and bright and the Tien Shen Range was visible in all its glory. The previous days had been overcast and visibility of the imposing mountains was limited.

IMG_9850Tien Shen Mountain Range

Wow! What a visible treat it was to see the mountains. Tall snowy peaks dominated the horizon and dwarfed the city. It was difficult to take good photos from the bus, but I tried as we drove through modern, upscale, wealthy Almaty toward the falcon ranch.

IMG_9810

IMG_9812

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Not great photos, but you get the idea…. Almaty is a large cosmopolitan city with excellent roads, upscale homes, large apartment complexes, hotels, and office buildings.

DSC_6681
We passed a state park and climbed up a hill to the facility which had grown beyond raising birds of prey and dogs to include a small seasonal hotel, restaurant, and stables. Although there was ice on the ground, we sat outdoors and throughly enjoyed the falconry demonstration.

DSC_6679

DSC_6682

DSC_6697

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Hunting with birds had been a part of Kazakh culture and history. The people at the facility were attempting to preserve that art for future generations. They showed how a variety of birds were trained to help hunt for food: an eagle owl, a falcon, a golden eagle, a Kazakh bald eagle, and a vulture.

DSC_6709

DSC_6723

They also raised Kazakh greyhound dogs and other breeds in the kennel. There were also two pens with wolves.

DSC_6730

IMG_9801Pair of Wolves

Afterwards we drove up another mountain road to the Medeo Sports Complex. Because it was Sunday, families were iceskating on the huge rink.

DSC_6750Medco Sports Arena

DSC_6749Huge Ice Skating Rink

We had a traditional Kazakh lunch in a real yurt on the mountainside across from the Medco Skating Rink. The yurts, which were crafted from animal skins, wood, and carpets, are still used today in the countryside.

DSC_6751Yurt Restaurant in the Mountains

DSC_6753Welcome

IMG_9839Local Guide

IMG_9826Lunch in the Yurt

IMG_9830Traditional Kazakh Meal

We were also entertained by a quartet of musicians who played Kazakh folk songs on traditional instruments.

IMG_9824Musician

IMG_9841Interior of the Yurt Restaurant

DSC_6754Tien Shen Mountain View

It was a fun morning and now it was time to continue our journey south to the country of Kyrgyzstan. We bid farewell to Almaty and, like Silk Road travelers throughout history, we embarked on the five hour drive to the border which crossed into Kyrgyzstan. The road ran westbound along the Tien Shen Mountain range for most of the journey. Then the coach turned south and crossed over a mountain pass. There were many cars, trucks, and vans going in both directions.

DSC_6766Check Point Along the Highway

DSC_6768Farm Truck

DSC_6776View From the Bus

DSC_6785On Toward Kyrgyzstan

DSC_6798Mountain Pass

DSC_6801Commercial Traffic

We stopped at a rest stop and gas station along the highway for a ‘water closet’ break. I think I might finally be getting good at using “Asian” toilets aka “squatties.”

IMG_9851Rest Stop

IMG_9855Gas Station

The border crossing between Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan was crowded with local people but otherwise uneventful. We cued up to get our passports stamped out of Kazakhstan. Then we had to pull our suitcases and walk across a short bridge which was the official border between the two countries. On the other side, we lined up again to have the passports stamped into Kyrgyzstan. Another large coach waited for us just beyond the border.  A strict NO Photos policy was in effect at all border crossings.

IMG_9856

We arrived in Bishkek after dark, had dinner at a local restaurant, and then were taken to our hotel: The Golden Dragon.

IMG_9857Dinner in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan

It had been a long and interesting day and I was tired. Tomorrow we explore Bishkek…..