Gallivanting Grandma

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

We arrived in Delray Beach, Florida on April 9th and stayed in the area for about two weeks.  It was fun visiting with my brother and sister-in-law and mother.  There are many interesting things to do in South Florida, not including the beach and numerous pools.  During our entire stay, the temperatures were in the mid 80s and it was bright and sunny every day.  At home in New York, it was still cool and raining.

Palm Beach is a couple of towns north of Delray and we bumped into Henry Morrison Flagler again.  While he was developing St. Augustine, and expanding his railroad, and opening the state of Florida, Flagler also built his winter mansion in Palm Beach and also built another hotel across the road calling it “The Breakers”.

Flagler’s Palm Beach Home

Flagler’s house is now a museum, and after seeing Flagler’s influence in St. Augustine, we had to visit it. We easily found the house because The Breakers is visible for miles around Palm Beach.  We parked in one of the parking lots and walked up the path lined with royal palm trees, to the front of the mansion.

Left Side of the Entrance Foyer

After we paid the rather expensive admission fee, we opted for the self-guided tour and happily discovered that photography was allowed without flash.  That means that I took lots of unnecessary pictures, and have many visual keepsakes.  Of course, the house is huge and parts of the interior reminded me of European castles.   Other parts of the house look like an old Victorian hotel.

The Ball Room

On the first floor, there was a billiards room with two pool tables and a large music room complete with a pipe organ.  The center courtyard provided light and cool breezes to the rooms during a time which preceded air conditioning in the hot climate.

Center Courtyard

There was a maze of over-sized rooms on the first floor which were designed for entertainment.  The house was “homey” in an overstated gilded sort of way.

Ladies’ Lounge

We took our time walking through the rooms.  It wasn’t crowded and there weren’t many visitors.  We walked up the wide marble stairs to the second floor.  There were many smallish bedrooms which were attributed to people who had, I imagine, donated money to restore and furnish the room.

The Master Bedroom

All the bedrooms were tastefully decorated in a variety of styles and colors and fabrics.  There were also several turn of the century bathrooms complete with 100 year old state-of-the-art plumbing.

A Floral Bedroom

The colorfully decorated bedrooms contrasted with the monochromatic servants’ rooms which were also available to view.  Beyond the servants’ rooms were several rooms for exhibit space.  There was an interesting display of the drawings and furniture designed by the artist, Joseph Urban.  He was an illustrator, theater set designer, and architect who lived from 1872 – 1933.  Urban designed productions for Ziegfeld Follies and the Metropolitan Opera in NYC.

The Carriage House

Back outside in the brilliant sunshine, we walked across a small courtyard to what would have been Henry Flagler’s carriage house.  Light streamed in through gigantic windows and soft classical music was playing.  On one side, tables were set for light lunch or high tea.  On the other side of the space was the Flagler’s private railroad car.

Railcar Number 91

The green railroad car was built in 1886 by the Jackson & Sharp Company for Henry Flagler.  It was acquired by the museum in 1959 and restored.  After seeing the rail cars of the Root family in Daytona Beach, it was fun to be able to go inside this car.

Interior of Railcar No. 91

The interior wood was amazing!  Beautiful hand-crafted wooden walls and built-in cabinetry were in every part of the car.  Special imported wood had been used and was restored to like-new condition.  You could just imagine the degree of wealth during the Gilded Age.

Palm Beach From The Flagler Museum

We stopped at the gift shop before walking back out into the beautiful Florida sunshine.  We learned more about Henry Flagler than we knew in St. Augustine.  He must have been an amazing person.

Monday – April 11, 2011 Boynton Beach, Florida

I love to discover new “things” and to have serendipitous experiences!!  Today was one of those days!  :-)  I’ll start from the beginning:

This morning I wanted to go to the Morikami Japanese Garden in Delray Beach, Florida, but it is closed on Mondays.  I soon discovered that all the museums in the two surrounding counties are closed on Mondays!  I searched all the event pages on the Internet for interesting activities and events nearby without much luck.  Finally Jeff found the Fort Lauderdale Antique Car Museum and it was open!

Front of the Museum

I might be the only woman in the world who likes cars.  Ever since I was a kid, I enjoyed “automobilia”, or everything that had to do with cars.  In eighth grade science I learned how the combustion engine works, and the difference between gas and diesel engines!  It was fascinating.

I enjoyed looking at cars and remember being excited about the new models every year during the ’50s and ’60s.  I love sports cars; especially the Ferrari – Testarossa, my favorite car!

Most of all I love driving cars!  One year, my car was totalled during the night when it was parked across the street from the house.  I was so depressed and upset not to have “wheels” for a few weeks.  If I had to choose between my car and a place to live, I would choose the car!

Also, I have owned and driven RED cars since 1978, most of them stick-shifts. To me, the car represents “Freedom”, in every sense of the word, and independence and happiness.  Whenever I’m sad or depressed or upset, I get into MY car and drive.  Drive on a high-way.  Drive on a free-way.  Drive in wide open spaces and go….

It was a wonderful idea to go to the Antique Car Museum today!  What I didn’t know was that all the cars were Packards.  According to Wikipedia, Packards were luxury cars built in Detroit, Michigan between 1899 to 1958.  The Packard brothers thought they could build a better horseless carriage.  Packard automobiles were the first to have modern steering wheels and they built the first production 12-cylinder engine.  Packards were sold to wealthy clients at prices starting at $2600, at a time when simple roadsters sold for $375.

We drove South to Fort Lauderdale on Route 95 and found the Antique Car Museum on SW 1st Avenue behind the Broward County Hospital.  The museum was in a non-descript building on a commercial street surrounded by vacant lots and train tracks.  We hesitated, but then a young woman opened the door and gave us a cheery welcome.  We paid the senior admission fee of $5.00 each, turned around, walked into the huge room, and our jaws dropped.  “Wow!”  We both said out loud.  We couldn’t believe our eyes.

All around the perimeter of the room were the most beautiful antique Packard automobiles anyone could imagine. They were all in like-new condition from top to bottom.  The bodies of the cars gleamed; the chrome glistened, and each car was in perfect condition.  The room looked like a new-car dealership.  Even the tires were clean!

As we walked around the cars we noticed that the walls were covered with a variety of Packard and automobile parts.  There were also beautiful oak cabinets filled with more automobile accessories.  There were collections of: headlights, cigarette lighters, carburetors,  radiator covers, hub caps, hood ornaments, toy cars, flower vases, oil cans, gasoline signs, door handles, etc., etc…..  It was an unbelievable collection of cars and car parts.

On three sides of the room there were the self-driven roadsters and chauffer-driven special cars.  On the other side there was a bright red Packard delivery truck and a “paddy wagon” police truck.

Then we discovered a second room filled with more antique Packards!  These were newer cars from the 1930s, ’40s and ’50s.  These was also a tow-truck and a fire engine.  What an unbelievable collection.  Further on there were two more rooms.

One room had more car parts and a small theater showing a video of the history of the Packard company.  The last room was a memorial to Franklin Delano Roosevelt and exhibited FDR memorabilia.

We noticed that the two mechanics were working on several cars.  Their job was to keep all the cars in running order.  Unbelievable!

A Packard “Woody”

We watched them start one of the cars.  It actually took both of them to accomplish the task and about 10 minutes: one depressing the clutch pedal and playing with the choke while the other sprayed ether into the engine.  After a few false starts, they got it running and backed the magnificent red Packard out into the sun shine.  We followed to take pictures.

Then the mechanic driving the car asked the other mechanic, “Would they like to come for a ride?”  “Holy Moly!  Would I?!!”  I thought.  It was a two-seater up front, so we had to take turns.  Jeff went first, (I took photos of him in the car) and then it was my turn!  It was just once around the block, but WOW! I felt like a kid on a joy ride!!  I looked at the old dials on the dashboard and watched the driver double-clutch to switch gears.  It had three speeds and reverse.

It was a quick run-around the block and we were at the back door again.  WOW!!  Was that fun!!!  I was afraid to touch anything on the door.  It had a double red leather hinge and chrome door handle.  Amazing!  I felt like a giggling school kid!! That was FUN!!

I thanked the mechanics and we stood by to watch them drive the car into the showroom of the museum.  The second mechanic moved a flat metal pan in position under the car to catch the oil dripping from the engine.

I Rode in This Car!!!

He pointed to one of the cars and said that Albert Einstein rode in it.  Another car belonged to Grover Cleveland.  One of the other cars had just 25,000 miles on the odometer.  The museum had the original bill of sale for that car.  In front of each car was a small stand with a loose leaf book which described the history of the model and personal history of that particular car.  What an amazing museum.  Highly recommended!

A Rare Hood Ornament & Antenna

Friday, April 8, 2011

Yesterday, we ran out of time to see all the sights we wanted to visit in St. Augustine.  Sometime in the future we will have to return to St. Augustine to see everything we missed, but before we left, we wanted to see the Dow Museum of historic houses on Cordova Street.  It was once known as The Old St. Augustine Village.

Visitor’s Reception & Ticket Office

We were at the entrance a little after 10:00 o’clock when the Dow Houses opened their gate.  The village is made up a nine historic houses dating from 1790 to 1910.  The museum is a small neighborhood of houses which were built where they currently stand over the last 220 years.  A man named Kenneth Dow, who was a wealthy collector, purchased the houses and contents and turned it into a museum.

Garden Path Between the Houses

Visitors enter through an old iron gate and into a lovely, if slightly overgrown, garden as if stepping back into time.  A sign directs visitors to enter the first house on the right.  Inside is a small gift shop and a cheery receptionist.  She handed us a map and explained the direction of the path and wished us well on our self-guided exploration through history.

None of the houses were moved.  It was a clever idea which took advantage of the well preserved state of the houses and their contents. Each house was furnished in period pieces which date to the aproximate construction period of the house.

We followed the map and the paths from house to house.  It was a fun exploration through history, not necessarily chronological, but a fun game of “what was behind the next door”?  As we progressed, we began to get the feeling that the houses needed a large dose of capital improvement as well as much TLC.

The museum was a unique opportunity to see the changes in American architecture and culture in a relatively small space.  The changes from Colonial to Victorian times were evident in just one rectangular block of homes.  Volunteers were gardening and weeding the areas between the houses.

Murat House 1790

The most elaborate house, dating from 1790, had belonged to the King of Naples, Prince Napoleon Achille Murat, one of Napoleon Bonaparte’s nephews.  His wife was George Washington’s grand niece, according to the sign on the building.

Interior of Murat House

The house needed much repair as was evident from peeling paint and plaster on the walls.  It’s unfortunate that the Dow Houses did not have a benefactor with a lot of money. A major transfusion of money to preserve the buildings and provide costumed guides in each house would make this a major historic attraction.

1910 Victorian House

Of course, the biggest house was the big white Victorian home built in 1910.  The upstairs rooms were used as artists’ studios and the main level was an art gallery.  The current exhibit was “quilts” or painted and sewn fabric art by a very talented artist.

By the Waterfall

When we got back to the original ticket house to return the map, we learned that the Dow Houses are owned by the Museum of Arts & Sciences in Daytona Beach.  Mr. Dow had wanted to give his collection of houses to the Lightner Museum, but they rejected his offer and the Museum in Daytona accepted his collections.

St. Augustine Lighthouse

Since we were going south, we thought we would stop at Daytona Beach to see the rest of the Dow Collection. We drove east toward the Atlantic Ocean and onto Route A1A.  Two of St. Augustine’s attractions are the Lighthouse and the ‘Gator Farm.  We stopped off to see the black and white stripped lighthouse but skipped the alligators.

Florida Route A1A

Back along the coastal road, it was a flat and straight road southward.  The sun was shining brightly and the temperature was in the 80s.  It didn’t take long to arrive at Daytona Beach.  This city was like all the other coastal resorts: tall hotels lined the beach with restaurants and tourist shops on the land side.

We found the road to the Museum of Arts & Sciences and, to our surprise, a long twisting driveway through dense tropical gardens opened to a very modern building.  Unfortunately, photography was not allowed inside the building so I do not have photos of the wonderful exhibits inside this amazing museum.

After we paid our admission fee, we saw a fabulous exhibit of photographs taken by Frederick W. Glasier. Neither of us had ever heard of him before and we were amazed at the high quality of his photographs. Perhaps Glasier was unknown because his subject matter was the circus and “wild west” performers in the early 1900s. His black and white photographs were incredible and the Ringling Museum of Art currently owns 1,800 of Glasier’s negatives and glass plates.  I highly recommend a web search.

Root Family Railroad Cars

The next room was full of the collections of the Root Family.  The collection included: Coca-Cola memorabilia, more than 800 Teddy Bears, Indy race cars, an apothecary shop, and two mid-century railroad cars.  The Root Family Glass Works was the largest Coca-Cola bottler in the U.S. after they created the design of the Coca-Cola bottle.

The Silver Holly

In the days of rail travel, wealthy families owned their own railroad cars.  The Silver Holly, an Art Deco masterpiece, was converted by the Root family to a private coach with a kitchen, living room, and enough beds for six children.  The 1948 Hiawatha is a fully restored Beaver Tail observation car.  The railroad cars were housed in a covered pavilion which looked like a railroad station.  I could take a few photos because the cars were “outside”.

The Hiawatha

The Museum of Arts and Sciences also had collections of American, Cuban, African, English, Chinese, European, Pre-Columbian art and also fossils, crystals, gems, and minerals.  One large exhibition hall showcased Kenneth Dow’s collection of American decorative arts.  This is where they kept all his “good stuff”.  See the museum’s website for photos of a small part of their holdings and visit the museum when you are in the Daytona Beach area.

We left the museum completely amazed and happy that we had discovered it.  We continued south along Route A1A through the Florida beach communities whose names we recognized from friends and relatives who were “snow birds”.  Our goal was Delray Beach where my mother, brother, sister-in-law were staying for the winter.  We had traveled more than 1,500 miles along the coast and had arrived in warm, sunny Florida.  It was an interesting trip full of discoveries and adventures.  Now it was time to take a break.  Hooray!!

Thursday, April 7, 2011

When I’m traveling and the decision has been made to stay another day, I have a strong feeling of relief to know that I don’t have to “get up and out” the next day.  Most mornings, it’s comforting to hit the road and keep going.  However after several days of traveling, Newton’s law of the body in motion, breaks down and I have to stop.  I was very relieved to stay in St. Augustine another day to see the sights.

Sunrise Over St. Augustine, Fl.

St. Augustine is a fun place to explore because there is a lot to see and do for different people with many interests and a range of ages.  We both hate run-of-the-mill gaudy tourist traps, and there certainly are enough places here for people who enjoy cheap thrills.  There is a Ripley’s Believe It Or Not Museum and the Fountain of Youth attraction, both of which we avoided.  At first glance, the city looked disappointing, but as we explored, we uncovered the layers of history, art, and entertainment.

The Main Pedestrian Street in the Morning

We quickly discovered that the tourists in St. Augustine get a late start because we were the only visitors on the empty streets and alleys.  Our goal this morning was Schmagel’s Bagels for breakfast.  The little cafe received good reviews on Urban Spoon.  It was a good surprise to have decent bagels so far from home.

Old Pharmacy Tourist Attraction

We had the whole day to explore St. Augustine, so we decided to take one of the two trolleys that we saw driving around town.  We have found in the past that this is frequently a good way to relatively quickly see all the main sights, then return to the ones which we want to see in depth.

Another Way to See St. Augustine

We walked to the end of the street to compare tourist trolleys.  At the corner was an old pharmacy complete with wooden cabinets filled with old-fashioned herbal remedies.

Old House on a Back Street

The old pharmacy was in an brown wooden building which also housed a small snack bar, gift shop, and sold tickets for one of the trolleys.  We chose the red trolly although both were “hop-on hop-offs” and their schedules were very similar.  We sat on the trolley for the entire tour which took about 90 minutes.  We say many sights which we would have missed without the trolley and learned where they were so we could return later.

Little Red Trolley

It was fun to sit on the silly trolley and see the attractions in St. Augustine.  The driver pointed out the main tourist sights punctuating his script with a good sense of humor and we enjoyed the tour.  St. Augustine seemed to have many interesting places to visit for people of all ages and a wide variety of interests.

Another Tourist Trap

Of course there were many places to which we did not want to return.  Ripley’s Believe It Or Not and The Fountain of Youth did not call to either of us.  Most importantly, we learned about Henry Morrison Flagler and how he began the development of Florida and opened the entire state for all the future generations of “Floridians” and Snowbirds.

Grace Unite Methodist Church

Henry Morrison Flagler had been John D. Rockefeller’s partner at Standard Oil and a railroad pioneer.  Need I say more? Like many of those early robber barons, Flagler had the golden touch and made money wherever he ventured.  He discovered the warm weather in Florida and built a railroad and several hotels in St. Augustine to make it easier for his wealthy friends to enjoy good weather in the winter.

Main Entrance to Flagler College

Poured concrete had been newly perfected and Henry Flagler also owned several concrete companies. His hotels were built with steel supports and poured concrete and were the most magnificent hotels at the time.  They had electric lights, the first elevators, modern plumbing, and the most luxurious accommodations in 1887, when it opened as the Hotel Ponce de Leon.  Electricity had been provided by generators supplied by Flagler’s friend, Thomas Edison.  When it opened, the hotel was the first major poured-concrete structure and one of the first buildings to have electricity in the United States. Today, the building and grounds of the hotel are part of Flagler College.

Interior of the Rotunda in Flagler College

Many rich and famous people stayed at the Hotel Ponce de Leon over the years.  We were told that the windows in the dining room were designed by Louis Comfort Tiffany.  The beautiful murals in the rotunda which rises in the former lobby of the hotel, was painted by the artist, George W. Maynard. The college did have a regularly scheduled tours of the campus, but they didn’t work out for us.

Lightner Museum

Right across the street from Flagler College is the former Hotel Alcazar, which was also built by Henry Flagler in 1887 in the Spanish Renaissance style.  Both hotels were designed by the architectural team of Carrere & Hastings, who later designed the New York Public Library and the U.S. Senate office building.  The former luxury hotel was purchased by the Chicago publisher, Otto C. Lightner in 1946 to keep his “collections”.

Interior Room in the Lightner Museum

Today, the Lightner Museum is an incredible place to visit and to see his unbelievable collection of decorative arts.  There are paintings, glassware, statues, lamps, silver, appliances, furniture, mechanical musical instruments, toys, stuffed animals, rocks, chandeliers, jewelry, and even an Egyptian Mummy.

Entrance to The Lightner Museum

Lightner’s collection was amazing and it was also interesting to see the interior of the former hotel.  When you look beyond the collection, visitors could imagine the opulence of the Hotel Alcazar.  The entrance to the museum was the former lobby and the floor tiles glistened!  It is worth looking at the museum’s website and seeing the UTube video of the collection and the building.

Former Pool

Part of the former pool had been filled in and transformed into a restaurant.  The large three-story “room” had been built with a retractable ceiling so swimmers could see the beautiful blue Florida sky while swimming.  We were told that Otto Lightner had purchased entire houses of wealthy people and all the contents to build his collection.  This probably explains the inclusion of buttons and cigar bands in his vast collection.

House with Two-Story Porches

There was more to see in St. Augustine, but we ran out of time because all the tourist attractions closed promptly at 5:00 PM.  So after a full day of sight-seeing we still had to see the Dow Houses.  We decided to visit them tomorrow morning before we left town.  St. Augustine turned out to be more interesting than we expected, which is always a good thing.