Gallivanting Grandma

Sunday – February 10, 2019

Last night The Mojito docked on the west bank of the Nile River near the city of Eduf, Egypt and this morning we awoke to a brilliant, crisp, clear sunny day.

We climbed up the stairs to the riverside corniche.  There was a clamor of carriage drivers yelling for attention to be chosen to drive our group to the Temple of Horus.  Two passengers for each weathered horse-drawn carriage; we were assigned to #468.

Our driver, Ahmed, smiled and helped us into the carriage and we were off in a caravan of American tourists clomping down the main streets of Edfu!

Edfu is an Egyptian city with a population of about 60,000 people.  It was fun riding through the village in the carriage although it was so early that many of the shops were closed.

A bakery:

Spice shop:

We arrived at the Temple of Horus and Ahmed parked his horse & carriage next to the others.

The Temple of Horus which was built between 237BC and 57BC, is the second largest temple in Egypt and one of the best preserved ancient monuments.  Preservation was possible because sand had covered the site and, over many centuries, houses had been built on top of the temple.

The huge pylons that stand at the entrance to the temple were decorated with battle scenes of King Ptolemy VIII during the Greco-Roman period in Egyptian history.

The temple was dedicated to the falcon god Horus.  Ancient Egyptians believed the temple was built on the site of the mythical battle between Horus and Seth.

Ahmed was waiting for us after we finished exploring the Temple.  We climbed into the carriage and enjoyed another fun ride through Edfu.

Edfu was now bustling with people, cars, wagons, and tiny three-wheeled jitneys.  It was market day.  Shops were open and vendors were everywhere.

Afterwards we enjoyed lunch onboard The Mojito, while the crew let go its lines from the dock and brought them aboard.  We cast off and the riverboat followed the channel markers in the Nile and we continued cruising southward.

We sat out on the top deck, chatted with our fellow travelers, and watched the beautiful Nile riverbank pass us by.

There was an amazing assortment of commercial and tourist boats on the river:

Some time in the afternoon, one of the chefs appeared on the top deck and gave us a cooking demonstration of how to make babaganoush – a delicious Middle-Eastern dish made from eggplants:

The head chef demonstrated how to carve a large gourd for display:

Time passed quickly and we arrived at the village of Kom Ombo, thirty miles north of Aswan.

Here’s a photo of The Mojito docking in front of two other river boats:

This was an unscheduled stop to let a small group of travelers ashore.  We planned to return to visit the Temple of Kom Ombo in a few days on our way back up the Nile.  The Mojito at its dock:

We had an hour to go ashore to explore on our own.  A bridal couple posed for photographs in front of the temple:

Local kids gathered around the couple and a loud percussion band played music as family members gathered at a restaurant below the temple.  It was a lively scene!

We explored the market which had been set up along the riverside.  We both bought galabiyas – the traditional Egyptian garment native to the Nile Valley – for our upcoming “Galabiya Party” on the boat.

We experienced another amazing day cruising down the Nile River.  Tomorrow we’ll be in Aswan.

Saturday – February 9, 2019

Last night, we spent a quiet evening aboard the Nile riverboat, Mojito, which was docked in Luxor.  This morning, we awoke with enough time for a leisurely breakfast before meeting the rest of the group.

We saw hot-air balloons rising from the western shore of the Nile, so we grabbed our cameras and went out on deck to watch the balloons and the sun rise.  There were about a dozen brightly colored balloons moving very slowly.

When I looked across the Nile, there were all kinds and shapes and sizes of boats and sailing vessels. What an assortment!  There were dahabiyas, feluccas, motorboats, dhows, small ferry boats, tug boats, and a wide variety of commercial boats.

As was the custom, The Mojito was stacked along the dock with three other riverboats side-to-side.  If someone wants to go ashore, they have to walk through the middle of the other boats.  The boat on the end is expected to leave first.  However, if one of the interior boats wants to leave, the others pull away and they all reposition themselves.  It’s a time-honored system that seems to work for everyone.

We boarded a bus to take us to the western side of the Nile River where the Valley of the Kings is located.  We drove past the fertile farms of the Nile valley, but the eastern Sahara Desert lies just beyond the green fields.

The Valley of the Kings was used for burials from about 1539BC through 1075BC and contains at least 63 tombs beginning with Thutmose I and ending with Rameses XI.  The photo below shows the main walkway of the famous necropolis.

Noblemen as well as wives and children of both nobles and pharaohs were buried in the tombs.  Today, tourists buy tickets to enter the tombs to see the elaborate paintings and decorations which cover the walls and ceilings.

The tombs are well marked with the name of the king and a brief history and map.  We entered the tomb of Rameses IX:

The Valley of the Kings became famous in 1922 when the British archeologist, Howard Carter, discovered the intact tomb of the Pharaoh Tutankhamen.  The tomb is open to tourists, however photography was NOT allowed inside!  So, we posed for a photo outside King Tut’s tomb.

The interior of the tomb had been restored.  We saw the mummy of King Tut-Ankh-Amun which was inside the beautifully decorated tomb.  Here’s the plan:

Our tour guide, Maged recommended several tombs to see.  We also entered the tomb of Rameses III which glowed in lovely soft lighting.  The figures still retained color from the original 3000 year old paint.

We could have spent the entire day exploring all the elaborately decorated tombs.  They were amazing and spectacular!!  We also went into the tomb of Rameses IV – another incredibly beautiful tomb.

Entering, exploring, and seeing the fabulous interiors of the ancient tombs of the pharaohs was one of the most amazing experiences of my life.  It was incredible.  Unforgettable.

Next stop was the Mortuary Temple of Queen Hatshepsut.  Mortuary temples were erected near royal tombs to commemorate the reign of the particular Pharaoh.  When Hatshepsut took on the full powers of a pharaoh, she was only one of three women to take on a man’s role of pharaoh in 3,000 years of ancient Egyptian history.

Looking toward the east from the top of the ramp leading into the temple, I could see the fertile Nile Valley just beyond the dry eastern Sahara Desert.

We passed several excavation sites which were being explored nearby.  Only a minority of the pharaoh’s tombs have been unearthed.

Later we visited an alabaster shop.  I would have preferred to stay longer at the Valley of the Kings and be able to see more tombs.  However, following someone else’s schedule is one real disadvantage to a tour group.

Our last stop on the western side of the Nile was a “photo op” at the Colossi of Memnon.  These are two massive stone statues of Amenhotep III erected about 1350BC to guard his mortuary temple.  The statues were damaged and the temple destroyed by Nile floods and earthquakes over many centuries.

We drove toward the Nile River passing fertile fields again on our way back to The Mojito.

Onboard we settled in for an afternoon and evening of cruising south on the river toward Aswan.  These are photos of other riverboats.

It was totally delightful to sit on the top deck as The Mojito cruised south along the Nile River.  As the sun set, we looked out at the shore and saw farmers and fishermen working as they had been over the last millennia.  Villages were made of mud bricks.  Animals were used to power farm implements.  Fishermen caught fish with hand-made nets.  We all felt like we were sailing through history.

The Mojito cruised down the Nile with several other riverboats:

Enterprising salesmen rowed up to our boat and sold tablecloths and towels to the tourists.  It was fun watching them throw their goods up to the top level and bargain and exchange money – while moving down the river against the current.

Sunset over the Nile:

It was well past dark when we reached the Esna Lock about 33 miles south of Luxor.  The lock system is used for raising or lowering boats between stretches of water which are on different levels in the river.

We went out on deck to watch The Mojito effortlessly cruise into and out of the lock and afterwards continue its journey to Edfu.

Today was a long day but overflowing with amazing experiences!

Friday – February 8, 2019

Today was our tour group’s day to fly from Cairo to Luxor which is about 315 miles south of the capital city.  It’s a six hour drive or an hour flight.

This morning, Cairo had been overcast and hazy, 58 degrees. As soon as we stepped off the plane in Luxor, a fresh breeze and bright sun greeted us.  The air smelled crisp and clear.  There was green grass and trees everywhere.

There were horse-drawn carriages, fields of green, wagons pulled by donkeys, and people tending crops.  We weren’t in Cairo anymore!

We were driven from the Luxor airport to the Nile River and boarded our riverboat, The Mojito.  I never found out the source of its name.  All the boats looked like the one in the photo above.  Four floors of cabins and public spaces with an open deck on top.  We settled in and, after dinner, watched a beautiful sunset.

Our activity for the evening was to visit the spectacular Temple of Luxor at night.  The modern town of Luxor is the site of the ancient city of Thebes.

The magnificent temple was built about 1400BC by Amenhotep III.  Two obelisks originally stood at the entrance.  The obelisk which had been on the right is currently in Paris at the Place de la Concorde.  It was given to France by Muhammad Ali Pasha in 1833.

Most of the temple had been buried under centuries of rubble as the city of Luxor grew.  A French archeologist, Gaston Maspero, began excavations in 1884.

Recent excavations began in 2004 to uncover the 1.7 mile long Avenue of Sphinxes which once connected Luxor Temple with Karnak Temple.  More than a thousand sphinx statues line the road which had been covered by mud, houses, and other buildings.

Another amazing day!

Thursday – February 7, 2019

Cairo is not a beautiful city.  With almost twenty-five million people, the capital city is crowded with planned and “unplanned” sand-colored buildings. All the streets are congested with too many vehicles and driving from one place to another is a slow process with car horns blaring all around.  There are few traffic lights and no one follows any ‘rules of the road’ or extends courtesy to other drivers.  Below are a few photos I took from our bus this morning:

We arrived at the Museum of Islamic Art with our armed police car chaperones and were led into the museum.  The architecture of the museum building reminded me of structures I saw in Arabia last year.

A car bomb had attacked the Cairo Police Headquarters across the street from the museum in 2014 and caused considerable damage to the building and destroyed many artifacts. The police headquarters is still a bombed-out shell.

The Museum of Islamic Arts had also experienced damage from the blast however it re-opened in January 2017 after extensive renovations.

The museum has a sizable collection of Islamic artifacts including rare copies of the Qur’an, Arabian carpets, coins, rare glass and pottery, and rare silver and wooden carvings.  There were beautiful objects dating from the Fatimid and the Mamluk periods of history through the Ottoman Empire’s control of the region.

After visiting the museum, we drove to the historic Islamic center of Cairo.  The bus stopped and let us out next to a small park near the Al-Hussain Mosque.

The mosque was built in 1154 and is considered to be one of the holiest Islamic sites in Egypt.  It was named for Muhammad’s grandson and it is believed that his head is buried on the grounds of the mosque.

We walked down the narrow street and entered the Khan El-Khalili souk. Historically this was the medieval market and commercial center of Cairo.

There had been terrorist attacks in the market in 2005 and 2009 killing several people. These senseless attacks drove tourists away from the Khan el-Khalili souk and also the country of Egypt for some time.

The gate below was built in 1511 by the Sultan al-Ghuri, the last powerful Mamluk sultan of Cairo.

The towers below are part of Al-Azhar University, Egypt’s oldest and most prestigious degree-granting university.  It was founded in 972 by the Fatimids as the centre of Islamic learning.

Always fun to see a bride:

The women in the two photos below, asked me to take their photos.

After Jeff and I wandered through the labyrinthine streets and alleyways of Khan el-Khalili, we rejoined our tour group and boarded the bus for a drive through another section of the city. Views from the bus:

Our next stop was the Saladin Citadel of Cairo, one of the best preserved fortresses from the middle ages in the world.  The medieval Islamic fortification was located on a hill near the historic center of Cairo.  The complex of mosques and museums is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Salah al-Din, the first sultan of Egypt, fortified the Citadel in about 1180 AD and led a military campaign against the European Crusaders.

There are three main mosques at the Citadel and the earliest was built in 1318.  We visited the Mosque of Muhammad Ali Pasha which dates from 1830.  He was buried in a tomb carved out of Carrara marble in the courtyard of the mosque

The impressive interior walls and pillars of the mosque were lined with alabaster.

Maged had warned us that it was a school holiday and there would be many Egyptian families visiting from small villages in rural parts of the country.  They were unaccustomed to seeing western tourists so the children like to take pictures with us to take back to school to show their classmates. They especially liked taking “selfies!”  I had had a similar experience in China with rural Chinese tourists several years ago.

We had fun politely posing with lots of giggling children.  Almost the entire extended family posed with us outside the Mohammad Ali Mosque:

We left the Citadel and drove into Al-Azhar Park where families were picnicking and playing games.  We had lunch in one of the restaurants located in the park.

After a tasty Lebanese lunch, we drove to the beautiful Ben Ezra Synagogue.  According to local folklore, this was the site where baby Moses was found.  Although the current building dates to the 1890s, the synagogue was founded in 882 AD.  I was able to take a photo of the exterior of the synagogue, but unfortunately photography was not allowed inside the beautiful sanctuary.

Ben Ezra Synagogue is well known because a treasure trove of 300,000 ancient Hebrew, Aramaic and Judeo-Arabic manuscripts were found there in a storeroom in 1753.  This collection, known as the Cairo Geniza, was divided among several world-wide academic libraries.  In the 1920s, there were 80,000 people in Egypt’s Jewish community.  As a result of emigration to Israel and the United States, today there are less than a dozen people of Jewish/Egyptian ancestry residing in Cairo.  Ben Ezra Synagogue currently serves as a tourist attraction and museum.

We left the synagogue and walked along several narrow alleyways until we reached an arch with a wooden sign which read: “The Cavern Church and the martyrs Serguis & Bacchus known as Abu Serga.”  The church is believed to have been built on the site where the Christian Holy Family rested at the end of their journey into Egypt.

Saints Sergius and Bacchus Church dates to the 4th century.  It is one of the oldest Coptic churches in Egypt and has significant historical importance.  Maged explained that the Coptic Orthodox Church is one of the most ancient Christian churches in the world, founded in the 1st century AD in Egypt by Saint Mark the Apostle.  Copts are the indigenous people of Egypt and are the direct descendants of the ancient Egyptians.

Wednesday – February 6, 2019

Officially, Cairo receives “less than 1 inch of rainfall per year, with even less recorded along the corridor of pyramids.”  So imagine our surprise and dismay when we awoke to see gray overcast skies and gentle falling showers.  It was also 57 degrees and windy.

Here is a photo of the ticket area in Giza that I took from the bus.  Notice the wet pavement and tourists holding umbrellas and specks of rain on the window.  This must be a rare sight in Egypt!

Undeterred, our stalwart group ventured out onto the damp sand wearing rain gear and carrying umbrellas.  Visiting Egypt was a first-time experience for everyone.  We had waited our entire extended lives and anticipated this moment with excitement to actually visit the ancient Pyramids of Giza….

In my imagination, I had pictured a vibrant sunny day and a bright blue sky.  Oh well….

Most of the camels and camel-drivers were resting and having an off-day because there were too few tourists.

The air felt chilly and it began to rain more heavily, so everyone went to the indoor Khufu Boat Museum next to the Great Pyramid of Khufu to see the ancient “solar boat.”  The ship had been deconstructed into 1224 small pieces around 2500BC and buried near the pyramids for the king to use in the after-life.

The Khufu ship is one of the oldest, largest, and best-preserved boats from antiquity.  It is 143 ft long and 19.5 ft wide.  It was built of Lebanon cedar and “described as “a masterpiece of woodcraft” that could sail today if put into water.”  This is scale model on display at the museum:

The ship is known as a “solar barge” which was used either as a funerary barge to carry the king’s body from Memphis to Giza or a ritual vessel to carry the king and the sun-god Ra across the heavens.

Imagine seeing a fully intact 4,500 year old boat which could be used today.  Amazing!

Under a soft misty rain, we rode the bus toward the Sphinx.  A mythological creature with the body of a lion and the head of a person, the Sphinx statue was built to guard over the Giza plateau.

Our bus drove around to the front of the Sphinx where chairs, awnings, and speakers were being set up for night-time light and sound shows.  Maged asked the restaurant owner at the site to open a gate so we could have access to a platform to take better pictures.

It started to rain again, so we quickly took a few more photos before running back to the shelter of the bus.

We had stops to see hand-woven carpets and to eat an Egyptian lunch.  At the Akhenaton Carpets School, teams of young people sat in front of large looms.  They demonstrated how to knot the fibers at lightning speed while following a printed pattern of a carpet design.

The young sisters in the photo below, invited me to sit with them and they tried to teach me how to knot the woolen yarn.  It wasn’t easy!

Our next major destination was the ancient burial ground of Saqqara.  There are eleven major pyramids and hundreds of smaller tombs within the four mile long necropolis which served the pharaohs of the Old Kingdom capital of Memphis.  The most significant structure is the Step Pyramid built for the Pharaoh Zoser (Djoser) in 2650BC.  This was the earliest stone monument ever built in the world.

Previous royal tombs were built underground topped by a mud brick “mastaba” – which means bench in Arabic. Zoser’s chief architect, Imhotep, constructed the mastaba into a stone pyramid of decreasing ‘steps.’  All the later pyramids developed from this concept.

We went into the tomb of Kegemni dating from 2340BC which is the largest mastaba in the Saqqara complex.  The walls were beautifully decorated with scenes of everyday life.  Some of the color still remained on the walls.  (no photography allowed)

We also climbed down into another smaller mastaba and stooped along a long stone corridor. This led to two small rooms whose ceilings were decorated with representative stars that looked like yellow starfish. This tomb was not as exquisitely decorated as Kegemni’s but was an archeological experience for me.

Afterwards, we walked to the magnificent Step Pyramid complex where Maged explained the history of the compound and we were able to explore the ruins on our own.

What an amazing day!!!