Suva, Viti Levu, Fiji

December 6th, 2018

Thursday – December 6, 2018

“Bula! Bula!” Means “Hello” in Fijian.  The full greeting is “Bula, Venaka!” Literally “Hello, Thank you” but serves as a warm welcome.

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Here’s the view of Suva, Fiji from our balcony. It looked like more like a commercial port, not the tropical paradise that the word “Fiji” conjured in my imagination.  Suva is the capital of the Republic of Fiji and biggest city on the island of Viti Levu.

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Jeff and I went ashore and I saw a No Smoking sign which included the local “Pidgin” language widely used all across the South Pacific Islands.  “E Tabu” means ‘it’s forbidden’ – taboo.  “Na” means no.  “Vaka” as in vapor/smoke.  “Tavako” is ‘tobacco’.  “Eke” means here.  Loose translation: “It’s taboo – No smoking tobacco – Here”

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We crossed the street and went toward a sprawling covered market.  Several people had mats spread out on the ground outside the building.  They were selling peanuts, eggplants, and a variety of root vegetables. The woman in the photo below had crabs tied together with a strip of a palm leaf.

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Inside the vast market building there were about a hundred vendors selling taro, pineapples, coconuts, potatoes, eggplants, different kinds of bananas, mangos, papayas, beans, other fruits and vegetables which we didn’t recognize.

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On the street outside the market there were more permanent stalls offering shoe and leather repair, cell phone services, and hot prepared foods.

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We had been warned about the “barrow men” who used wheelbarrows to deliver fruits and vegetables to the vendors.  They had a reputation for mowing down unsuspecting visitors in their haste to perform their jobs.  I saw two of the barrow men relaxing between deliveries and asked one of the men if I could take his picture.  He nodded gruffly.  When I showed him his photo, he beamed a wide smile and laughed heartily.  You never know what people are really like unless you communicate with them….

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Jeff and I saw a sign which read “Grog Upstairs” and we discovered the second floor of the market where kava roots, tobacco, and Indian spices were sold.  We were told that the islanders drink kava especially during celebrations and special events.  My dictionary states that kava is “a narcotic sedative drink made in Polynesia from the crushed roots of a plant of the pepper family.”

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When I took the picture of the kava roots above, the woman who ran the booth came forward to talk to me.  She explained how the roots were dried and finely ground, then water is added to the powder.  The plastic container to the left of the roots held ground kava.  The woman’s assistant offered me a drink of kava, but I declined graciously, thinking about drinking the local water as well as the unknown effect of the kava.

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Outside on the street there was a large banner celebrating the recent visit of Prince Harry and Megan Markle.  They visited New Zealand and Australia as well as several other Polynesian islands.

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Here is a photo of one of the main intersections in Suva.

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A few minutes later, there was a huge tropical downpour.  Fortunately, most of the sidewalks were covered and we ducked into the modern, air conditioned Tapoo department store to get out of the rain.  This sign directed us up to the 4th floor:

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We didn’t want to have Fijian New York pizza but we sat at a table in the food court and had refreshing cold Pepsi Colas.  Did I mention it was 84 degrees with 93% humidity outside before it started to rain?  Christmas decorations in Tapoo:

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The food court included a young brown-skinned Santa who gave me the Hawaiian/Polynesian double-handed greeting.

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Later, we found the post office and I dropped some postcards into a slot labeled “Over Seas” so I hope my family gets them.  When we got back to the Amsterdam, there was a U.S. Coast Guard ship in the harbor and the light was interesting as gray clouds increased.

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In the evening, the Amsterdam pushed away from the dock and we left the Port of Suva, Fiji.  More amazing cloud formations on the South Pacific Ocean:

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Port Denarau, Nadi, Fiji

December 5th, 2018

Wednesday – December 5, 2018

Bula! Bula!  That’s “Hello” in Fijian.

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The Amsterdam anchored off the village of Nadi on the island of Viti Levu, in the Republic of the Fiji Islands.  The ship’s tender took us to the dock of the marina at Port Denarau.  The Fijian Dollar was worth only half of our American Dollars, so shopping was a good buy for us.

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Denarau Island was a former mangrove swamp on the west side of Viti Levu, which is the largest island of 330 islands in the Fiji archipelago.  Denarau Island has become Fiji’s five-star tourism enclave with seven international resorts, residential villas, and a championship golf course.  A tourist haven.

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With 82 degree temperatures and 85% humidity, it sure didn’t feel like Christmas!  The “tree” in my photo below was made of plastic Fiji water bottles.  (Yes, some Fijian men wear wrap-around skirts.  Much cooler than pants!)

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Unfortunately, we didn’t go off the island because transportation was limited.  We did a little shopping at the famous Jack’s of Fiji and had lunch overlooking the bay.  We watched a couple of men fishing with nets from shore.

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Huge clouds were gathering on the mountain across the harbor. I could smell the rain.

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As the clouds moved across the bay, we decided to return to the ship.

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The cloud formations over the water were fascinating and I couldn’t stop myself from taking dramatic photos:

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We got back to the ship just in time to watch a huge downpour of tropical rain.

Mystery Island, Inyeung, Vanuatu

December 3rd, 2018

Monday – December 3, 2018

Quote of the Day: “Traveling’s not something you’re good at.  It’s something you do.  Like breathing.”

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Mystery Island is a tiny uninhabited “islet” of the Republic of Vanuatu – previously known as the New Hebrides.  Vanuatu (the name means “Land Eternal”) is a Y-shaped chain of islands that consists of about 83 islands.  Granted independence by Britain and France in 1980 as the Ripablik Blong Vanuatu.

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Mystery Island only has a few huts for overnight tourists, primitive amenities for cruise ship passengers, a few trails that bisect the island, and a grassy airstrip built by the U.S. Military.   It’s really a sandbar with the indigenous name of Inyeung, which means “small island” in the local language.  No one lives on the island because it’s considered taboo.

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There was a coral reef on the windward side of Inyeung protecting it from the Pacific Ocean.  The Amsterdam anchored between Mystery Island and the main island, Aneityum, and ran tenders to the smaller island/sandbar.

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Vendors from the village of Anelghowhat arrived by small boats in the morning to set up their goods in thatch-roof stalls at the market.  Goods for sale included batik fabrics and clothing, flower leis, shell jewelry, t-shirts and sarongs.

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Mystery Island is a true South Pacific paradise: no people, no electricity, no running water, no internet or phone service.  Local women sell goods, offer massages and hair braiding; men play music and dance and grill lobsters for tourists.

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Vanuatu has a history of cannibalism, like most of the South Pacific islands, so several young men offer photo opportunities for tourists.

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Mystery Island can be described as a jewel of the South Pacific Islands.  We had a wonderful time swimming in the crystal clear water and relaxing on the pristine beach.

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Easo, Lifou Island, New Caledonia

December 2nd, 2018

Sunday – December 2, 2018

Last night our ship left Noumea and cruised 120 miles across the Coral Sea to Lifou Island.  This is the most populous of the Loyalty Islands of New Caledonia.  Lifou is bigger than the island of Tahiti and it is the largest coral atoll in the South Pacific.

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The Amsterdam slowly passed by the coral reef that surrounds Lifou and we anchored in the beautiful Baie de Santal.

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We took one of the tenders into shore:

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Most of the people on Lifou are Kanak because the French government declared the Loyalties an indigenous reserve in 1899.  As a result the residents were spared the worst features of colonialism.  The Kanaks are one of the original Polynesian settlers of the region.

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Primitive straw huts were set up to provide shade for a few local people who offered hair braiding, massages, or coconut drinks for sale.  There was a more substantial long hut at the top of a small hill where vendors had set up handicrafts and souvenirs.

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We were told that the lifestyle of the local people is unhurried and many people grow their own yams, taro, and sweet potatoes in their gardens.

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We had been warned that no one spoke English, just French and Kanak. However, like vendors everywhere, the people had enough words to conduct business.

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Unfortunately, we couldn’t visit the entire island.  We were limited to this gorgeous bay and its beautiful beach. The water was crystal clear, warm and very inviting.

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Unfortunately, Jeff and I didn’t bring our bathing suits so we could just dip our toes in the water.  It was a beautiful unspoiled beach with pristine water.  It was my idea of a perfect tropical paradise.

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We stayed at the beach as long as we possibly could and finally reluctantly took the tender back to the ship.  The Amsterdam slowly moved out of the bay, past the reef, and into the Coral Sea.  It had been a wonderful day!  We watched the sun set over the Pacific….

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Noumea, New Caledonia

December 1st, 2018

Saturday – December 1, 2018

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We just had two days “At Sea” cruising the South Pacific Ocean on the Holland America Cruise Ship: M.S. Amsterdam.  They kept us busy with lectures, activities, and entertainment in the Main Stage Theater. We also had plenty of time to relax and enjoy a pampered lifestyle.

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Today we arrived in Noumea which is the capital and largest city of the French islands of Nouvelle Caledonie.  Noumea is situated on a peninsula in the southern part of New Caledonia’s main island, Grande Terre.  The city lies on a protected deep-water harbor and is one of the most industrialized cities in the South Pacific due to the island’s nickel and gold mines.

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Although French is the main language on the island, New Caledonia is a unique mix of French and Melanesian cultures.  During World War II, Noumea served as the headquarters of the U. S. military in the South Pacific.  We found an active market just off the harbor.

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Fresh fish and produce were set up in permanent structures.  Tents were set up in the back for clothes, beach equipment, souvenirs, tee-shirts, etc.

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Two men played island music behind one of the produce stands:

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This tropical tree blooms in December all over the South Pacific islands.  Someone said they call it their Christmas tree.

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There was a downtown with a quiet main street which led into the center of Noumea.

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The weather was hot (in the high 80s) and very humid.  It didn’t feel like Christmas!  We strolled back to the ship and cooled off in our air conditioned cabin.

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A cooling breeze blew across the harbor.  Later, we watched the sun set over the Pacific while the Amsterdam sailed away from Noumea, Nouvelle Caledonie.

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