Traveling to Amman, Jordan

September 25th, 2017

Sunday September 24 to Monday September 25, 2017

It was a very long day waiting for an almost midnight flight out of JFK to Amman, Jordan via Paris.  The trip was seven hours flying time plus a 3 hour layover in Charles de Gaulle Airport, plus a 4 hour and 40 minute flight to Queen Alia Airport, arriving at 9:30 pm local time.

I had read about obtaining a visa before going through passport control at the Jordan airport and I hoped it wouldn’t be too complicated. Fortunately, it wasn’t. There were large signs in English and Arabic proclaiming a 40 JOD fee ($56.50). The exit signs led to a large white marble room.  There was a currency exchange booth and an adjoining ATM machine along one wall.  Opposite there were side-by-side booths, one for purchasing a visa and the other for passport control.

After I used the ATM machine, I lined up with other tourists to get my visa.  Totally painless.  Afterwards, I took the escalator down to the exit to find a taxi.  I had read about a variety of rates: anywhere from $7 to $50 and “official government” taxis as well as “unofficial” buyer-beware taxis.

I was stopped by two separate smiling men asking if I wanted a taxi, but fortunately I saw a “tourist information” sign near the doors and rejected their offers.  I went to the tourist desk and inquired about a taxi to my hotel.  The man welcomed me to Amman and asked if I had a reservation at the hotel.  I suppose he would find a hotel for me if I didn’t.

I told him I had a reservation at the Fairmont Hotel.   He said he didn’t know it so I took out my reservation papers and then he recognized it and said the hotel was very new and had just opened three weeks ago.

He wrote the name and address of the Fairmont on a piece of paper and told me the official taxis were white and it would cost me 20 JODs to travel 30 kilometers to the city center.  I went out to the line of waiting white official taxis. I showed the little paper to a group of men in official blue shirts and followed one of them to his taxi.

The driver spoke a little English but I was too tired to chat. I looked out of the window to see what Amman looked like. All the other cars on road looked dusty and covered with sand. The highway looked shiny and clean like the asphalt had just been poured. Alongside the roads there were short pine trees randomly sticking out of sand and rocks.  There are hills everywhere and the lights from the houses lit up the darkness. The gray buildings were very plain and all looked like poured concrete slab construction.  When we drove past a building with armed guards, the driver told me “security is very good in Amman.”

I arrived at the Fairmont about 11 pm exhausted but excited. A platoon of doormen descended on the taxi. They opened my door and greeted me, took my suitcase from the trunk, said something to the driver, and escorted me into a security room.  One of the doormen put my suitcase and backpack on the conveyor belt and all my bags went through airport-like X-ray.  The security guard looked me over throughly.

Then the doorman led me into a spacious, flower-filled, white marble lobby.  I thought I had arrived in heaven!

Ahji, a polite young man who told me his American mother lives in California, welcomed me to Jordan and checked me in.   The doorman escorted me to my fabulous room and placed my suitcase in the walk-in closet.  It had been my idea to arrive one day early and stay at a nice hotel after traveling so far to get a good nights sleep before joining the tour group.  The Fairmont was wonderful and even better than I expected. (I even got a good on-line rate with breakfast and late check-out.)


A nice touch was complimentary bottles of water and a bowl of fruit and pastries: paklava and a fantastic white chocolate dessert covered with assorted berries.  Unfortunately, I wasn’t hungry….

This was a great way to begin an adventure.  I slept quietly and peacefully, and I looked forward to touring and seeing more of Jordan.

Sea Day Back to Boston

September 8th, 2017

Friday – September 8, 2017

The sun is brightly shining on the inky Atlantic Ocean and casting a million sparklers on the undulating sea.  The M.S. Rotterdam is on its way to Boston and the end of our fabulous cruise!  It’s appropriate that our last day is a glorious glad-to-be-alive sunny day.  Thirty-seven days ago, on August 2nd, we set out from Boston on the Holland America Line’s flagship MS Rotterdam to cruise the North Atlantic Ocean and return.  We’ll be in Boston Harbor later today.

 

This cruise was the “Voyage of the Vikings.”  The map above shows the major ports of call where we stopped to explore.  The first leg of the journey was from Boston to Rotterdam, the Netherlands.  On the return trip we stopped in several different ports.  The most exciting places to visit were two towns in Greenland and four cities in Iceland.  Because of good weather, we were able to cruise beautiful Prince Christian Sound, Greenland twice!

The only port the ship couldn’t get into was Halifax, Nova Scotia yesterday, because of high gale force winds.  Captain van der Wal tried but 50 mph winds were pushing the ship broadside into the dock and even with the help of two tugboats, the captain felt it was a dangerous situation.  So, he cancelled Halifax and steered the ship back out into the Atlantic.

All day yesterday, we cruised on rough seas and gale force winds as the Rotterdam slowly moved westward toward Boston and home.  We were “at sea” for three days, since we left St. John’s, Newfoundland.  Castaways on the Atlantic….  :-)

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We arrived in beautiful Boston harbor about six o’clock at night and ended this journey as it began, with a quiet evening watching the sun set over the city of Boston.  It’s 55 degrees with a gentle breeze of 6 knots – 3 on the Beaufort scale.

Tomorrow, Saturday – September 9th – we’ll disembark, drive home, and return to our normal landlubber-lives. The M.S. Rotterdam logged a total of 9245 nautical miles or 10,638 land miles.  This Voyage of the Vikings was an unforgettable journey and a wonderful and amazing adventure!

Almost Docked in Halifax, N. S.

September 7th, 2017

Thursday – September 7, 2017

We left St. John’s, Newfoundland Tuesday evening and sailed all day yesterday southward around the province of Nova Scotia.  The sunny sea day Wednesday melted into thick dense fog and heavy rain this morning.

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The ship arrived early this morning in the safe harbor of Halifax, capital of the province.  Fog and heavy rain dominated the region.  Here’s my photo of Halifax harbor as the Rotterdam slowly moved towards the cruise ship dock.  I understand why they painted the commercial cranes a bright red.

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Captain van der Wal made an announcement describing high winds (over 45 kts)  and the challenge of docking broadsides to the wind.  He said he and the crew had tried to dock with the assistance of one tugboat and they were waiting for another tug to come to help.  A little while later, the captain announced he had to cancel our stop in Halifax and the ship left the harbor and motored back out into the Atlantic Ocean.

The waves were high and I tried to get a good photo of them, but unfortunately they look compressed when seen from above.  The 3rd promenade deck was closed to walkers because it was too wet so I couldn’t get any really good wave photos.  But the ship rocked and rolled and creaked all day and night.  Thank heavens for the ship’s stabilizers!

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We were a bit disappointed.  I wanted to visit Halifax again and see how the city has changed over the years.  We haven’t visited in many years.  However, with the heavy rain we probably wouldn’t have stayed out very long.  The real problem was for Canadian passengers who were planning to disembark here, our last stop in Canada before getting into American waters.

At this time, we don’t know where we’ll end up.  The choices are to stop somewhere along the coast of Maine or continue to Boston and arrive a day early.  We’ll see.

St. John’s, Newfoundland, Canada

September 5th, 2017

Tuesday – September 5, 2017

HAPPY 17th BIRTHDAY to our granddaughter HAN!!!

I noticed something different and unique for the first time this morning: the sun was shining directly onto our balcony and into our cabin!  We were finally heading south and since we’re on the port side, the rising sun was right there beyond the beautiful Atlantic Ocean.

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The captain had announced we would arrive just outside St. John’s about nine o’clock and he would pick up the harbor pilot.  So we got ready, had breakfast, and went out to the forward area on the deck six so we could watch the Rotterdam enter St. John’s harbor  The sun was shining and there was a 28 knot stiff breeze and it was a glorious 59 degrees!  So far we’ve traveled 8,297 nautical miles. Amazing!!

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The ship turned westward.  The Atlantic Ocean was behind us and the rocky shore of Newfoundland was in front of us.  The rocks reminded me of Greenland, or Iceland.  Comparison wasn’t difficult.  I could barely make out the tiny opening between the rocks which was the entrance to the harbor.  The captain said the harbor was only about 100 meters wide.  I wondered about the dimensions of the ship and someone said the Rotterdam was about 33 meters wide.  Hmmmm…

On the right, high above the ship was Signal Hill with Cabot Tower perched on top.  Walkways with people hiking lined the cliff below Cabot Tower and the rocky hill dropped into the water.  There was a short light above the water and a marker below it to starboard.

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Below is a photo of brightly painted houses built on the rocks along the inlet, below Signal Hill.

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To port, there was a small lighthouse and ancillary buildings built into the cliff.  Below the lighthouse there were military bunkers with huge “guns” pointing in our direction.  It was a reminder of the role that St. John’s played during World War Two as a strategic military base for the Allied forces.

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In front of us was a tall green channel marker sticking out of the water.  Yes it was narrow.  The harbor entrance was very confined.  Unbelievably limited.  The ship proceeded very slowly into the constricted space.  It was an exciting entrance into St. John’s Newfoundland.  (The photo below is looking back, out into the Atlantic from inside the harbor.  It’s a great naturally “protected harbor.”)

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After we passed through the narrow opening, the harbor opened to reveal the city of St John’s.  The ship continued to the commercial port and easily “parked” at a dock in the center of the city.  It’s fun to watch the gigantic ship slowly move sideways and come alongside the dock.

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We were finally in The Republic of Doyle!!  :-)  I’ll explain.  There was a Canadian television program which aired for about six years  finally ending in 2014.  It was about the antics of a family of private detectives, named “Doyle,” and it took place in St. John’s Newfoundland.  The photography was gorgeous and every episode highlighted the beauty of St. John’s with ariel photos.  In the summer – on sunny days.  The characters were quirky and funny and the plot was silly but the program was very entertaining.  Apparently, it was a big hit in Canada.  Jeff and I watched every episode of the Republic of Doyle and I wanted to see some of the specific places.

Below is a photo of a ship which services the offshore oil rigs off Canada.  There were several of these near our ship, loading up.

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We booked a short excursion called “Highlights of St. John’s and The Rooms.”   We boarded a lovely new tour bus with about 50 other passengers and drove up Signal Hill to see the fantastic view.  The guide said it was the most amazing view we will ever see and I could almost agree with her.  The 360 degree view was spectacular!!

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We continued on the bus with a quickie tour of St. John’s more interesting sights, eh.  It’s a lovely city, eh?.  There were many brightly painted houses built on the hills rising out of the harbor.  The guide commented that the hilly streets of St. John’s makes San Francisco look flat.  Eh?

The guide pointed out the house that was used as the exterior of the Doyle family house on the television show:

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And the “Duke” of McMurdo’s Lane which served as the watering hole for Jake Doyle and his friends & enemies:

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The Basilica Cathedral of St. John the Baptist, finished in 1855, was built on top of the highest hill and has an imposing view of St. John’s.

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The bus drove up the hill, passing the cathedral, and dropped us off across the street at The Rooms.  This is a huge complex of museums and cultural centers and restaurants built around a glass enclosure with a commanding view of St. John’s.

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We walked around, enjoyed the live music, peeked at the museums which told about the history of Newfoundland and the immigrants who fished and mined and developed the region.

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We ate a late lunch of fresh fish at a really good restaurant overlooking the harbor.  We were fortunate to have a table at the edge of the view.  That’s the M.S. Rotterdam in the harbor below The Rooms:

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Afterwards, we walked down the very steep street back to the waterfront and our ship.  After 36 days living aboard the Rotterdam, it felt like “home.”   We were lucky to have glorious weather today and we had fun exploring ‘The Republic of Doyle.’  In a couple of days we’ll be chugging into Boston harbor and we’ll really be “HOME.”  Almost….

St. Anthony, Newfoundland & Labrador

September 4th, 2017

Monday – September 4, 2017

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We left Nanortalik, Greenland Saturday afternoon and cruised for two nights and all day yesterday across the Labrador Sea, aka “Iceberg Alley.”  I have a cold so I fell asleep early and slept well despite the ship heaving on the ocean swells.  We’ve traveled 8047 nautical miles since leaving Boston on August 2nd.

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I was awake early this morning before I heard the crew lowering the tenders at six ‘o’clock.  I looked out to see Canada, and I felt we were almost home!  The Rotterdam dropped anchor near the protected harbor of St. Anthony on the tip of the peninsula at the eastern end of Newfoundland island.  It looked a lot like many of the rocky shores we’ve been seeing during the past several weeks, but there were trees above the rocks! There were no forests in Iceland or Greenland.

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The weather was clear, about 50 degrees with a cool breeze blowing.  The Vikings were said to have come this far south and settle nearby at a location now called l’Anse aux Meadows National Historic Site.  There were excursions from the ship to see the 11th century Viking mounds and other excavations.

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We rode the tender ashore and the first thing I noticed was that we were back to “red right returning” buoys.  When we entered other harbors in Europe, the ship kept the green buoys to the right.  It was an interesting tender ride past commercial fishing boats which lined one side of the long U-shaped harbor.  It was Labor Day in the U.S. and today we learned that Canadians celebrate it on the first Monday of September also.  Therefore, nothing was open except the hospital across the road and the Grenfell Museum and Interpretive Center at the tender dock.  They probably opened the center for the cruise ship.

The M. S. Rotterdam was anchored in the larger harbor pictured below.

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St. Anthony is an unusual town because it goes around the jagged edge of the lengthy harbor, without a town center.  Houses and commercial buildings lined the waterside all the way around.  The harbor of St. Anthony was used by French and Basque fishermen as seasonal fishing stations in the early 16th century.  Three centuries later, Dr. Wilfred Grenfell was the first doctor to come to this remote region in 1892.  He established hospitals, cooperatives, and schools all across rural Newfoundland and Labrador.  We walked around the buildings of the Interpretive Center and, of course, the gift shop.

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We returned early to have lunch aboard the ship and relaxed.  I walked around the ship to take photos while most of the passengers were on shore to have a record of the interior of the ship.

Lido Cafe for breakfast, lunch, snacks, and leisurely suppers:

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Aft Deck – aka The Retreat:

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Indoor pool with retractable roof for warm days:

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The Atrium – center of the ship:

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Jeff in the Library blogging:

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Captain van der Wal announced we have 267 nautical miles to go to reach St. John’s, Newfoundland our next port of call!  He said the weather would be raining in the morning and partly cloudy in the afternoon.  We’ve been so lucky with weather on this adventure, it would be okay to have a rainy day.  Just less photos!