Sea Day – Scotland to Iceland

August 27th, 2017

Sunday – August 27, 2017

We left Portree, Isle of Skye Scotland last night and cruised northward toward the North Atlantic Ocean.  We set our clocks back a hour so I awoke early to a rainy day.  There were gale force winds and white caps on the water and the ship rocked back and forth.  By noon the wind had died and the seas were calm with just the swells.

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After breakfast, we went to the theater to hear guest lecturer, Dr. Hannessoon talk about Greenland and the People.  He spoke about the history of the largest island in the world and the indigenous people who lived there.  A number of years ago, he went to the north western part of Greenland during the winter to explore, camp, and ski in the region.  He spoke about his experiences and showed his photographs of the trip.

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We caught the end of a presentation of the excursions in the three towns we’re going to visit in Iceland starting tomorrow.  The towns looked small but very interesting.  Afterwards, we heard another Ask the Captain Q & A with our new captain,XXXX.  He’s younger than the previous captain and seems to be more flexible and smiles more.

The Captain predicts a rainy day and 48 degrees tomorrow in Akyruryi .

Portree, Isle of Skye, Scotland

August 26th, 2017

Saturday – August 26, 2017

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My bed shook and vibrated so much last night it kept waking me up.  I was reminded of those vibrating chairs at Brookstone’s stores in the mall.  I felt like I was lying in a salt shaker!  I assumed it was the “stabilizers” which keep the ship on an even keel, BUT……

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Later in the morning, I was awakened by a stillness and I realized my bed stopped vibrating.  I thought we had stopped and arrived at Portree, but when I looked out, the sea was flat calm.  So I went back to sleep.

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When the sun came up we were approaching the beautiful rocky shore of the Isle of Skye.

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Jeff and I had driven to Skye in 2007 and we had good memories of the stark beauty of the Scottish highlands despite the “misty” weather.  We learned that it rains so much in Scotland that the locals don’t refer to their damp weather as “rain,” they called it “mist.”  And no self-respecting Scotsman ever carried an umbrella.  Fortunately for us this morning it wasn’t “misting” and the wind was calm.  Not a typical Scottish morning.

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The ship slowly approached the harbor at Portree and dropped anchor just outside the green buoy and the large rocks jutting out from the shore.  We went forward to take photos and admire the beauty of the hills.  We saw dolphins playing in the water and watched the crew prepare the tenders.  We were amazed that it was 54 degrees and a bright sunny day!

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Then we relaxed and waited for our turn to go ashore.  Portree is only about 200 years old and was created as a fishing village at the beginning of the 19th century.  Today the capital of the Isle of Skye has only about 2300 inhabitants.

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Large clouds rolled by as we walked around the town and took post card pictures of the harbor from many vantage points.

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We stopped in at a restaurant called the Granary for tea and scones about noon.  Later Jeff had a glass of cider at the pub in one of the hotels.  A British tourist told us this was a holiday in Great Britain so there were many English tourists in town.  There was also a tour bus load of visitors from Spain and, of course, there was us from the Rotterdam.

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We returned to the ship in the afternoon and relaxed on the balcony of our cabin with classical music from the television.  We went to the dining room about 6:30 and ate with a nice couple from Tennessee, Ann and Harry.  Afterwards, we went up to the crow’s nest lounge to watch the ship leave Portree and cruise through the calm waters of the bay.

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Tomorrow we have a sea day and I’m looking forward to a nice relaxing day.  Our next port of call on Monday is Djupivigor, Iceland – 507 nautical miles away.

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Douglas, Isle of Man, UK

August 25th, 2017

Friday – August 25, 2017

Today was our day to visit the Isle of Man.  This is the small independent island off the coast of Great Britain that boasts its own flag, government, currency, and Manx cats.

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The Rotterdam left Liverpool late last night and sailed the short distance to the Isle of Man, located in the Irish Sea between England and Ireland.  We arrived early this morning and set anchor off the crescent-shaped harbor of Douglas (locally pronounced “Doo -lish”), the capital of The Isle of Man.  The weather was 59 degrees, overcast and windy.  We joined hundreds of other passengers in the theater to take a tender to go ashore for our excursion.

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Unfortunately, there was a delay in departure because they could only use the port tender door due to a strong wind, so we waited for about an hour in the theater.  We had an interesting conversation with a man who had retired from Bell Labs in New Jersey.  Finally they called our tour, we went ashore and boarded a bus to take us to the vintage Electric Railway tram on the opposite side of Douglas harbor.

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We rode along the lovely promenade which reminded me of Nice, France.  We, along with 38 other passengers, squeezed into a narrow gauge two-car tram built in 1893.  We left Douglas behind and climbed up away from the sea and turned into the beautiful green farmlands of the Isle of Man.  It was a lot of fun; like an amusement park ride.

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The Isle is thirty miles long and ten miles wide and we thought this would be a good way to see some more of the island.  Beyond Douglas there were vast stretches of farmland.  Sheep dotted the beautiful green fields and distant hills were purple with heather.  From the train we could see The Great Laxey Wheel in the distance.  It was built in 1854 to pump water from Laxey’s lead and zinc mines.  The giant wheel is the largest working water wheeling the world, measuring over 72 feet in diameter.

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We stopped in a village called Laxey to change trains to another narrow gauge tram which was built in 1893.  This train went inland and climbed up Snaefell Mountain, the highest peak on the island at approximately 2000 feet.

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As the train continued to climb, we saw the remains of the mines in the valley below.  It was windy, rainy, and cloudy when we reached the end of the line at Snaefell. The train stopped and everyone went into the little hotel/restaurant located at the summit.  I bought some Snaefell postcards and warmed up a bit.

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We took the train back to Laxey but because the tour began late, we had to take a bus back to Douglas.  This weekend there was a motorcycle race around the island and we saw some of the participants on the highway.  The bus route ran through more populated areas and it was interesting to see the islander’s houses, schools, and etc.

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We still had some time when we returned to Douglas, so Jeff and I walked along the Promenade and took photos and looked around at the Victorian style houses.  Our guide said they had been private houses but recently were converted to apartments or hotels for visitors.

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Just off the harbor was the Tower of Refuge which looked like a small medieval castle.  It was built as a sanctuary for shipwrecked sailors.  We returned to the ship about 2:30 and had lunch by the Lido pool at the Dive In snack bar.

We attempted to go to the eight o’clock show in the theater because it was a British comedian and we thought it might be fun.  We got to the theater at 7:25 and it was completely full.  We sat on hard chairs along the starboard side with poor visibility which were the last available seats.  People who arrived later had to stand or return for the 9:30 show.  At 8:00 we watched Paul Adams’ stand-up comedy routine.  He was okay.  Jeff enjoyed the show more than I did.

Tonight, the ship is going from Douglas northward 334 nautical miles, to the Hebrides Islands of Scotland and the town of Portree on the Isle of Skye.

Liverpool, UK

August 24th, 2017

Thursday – August 24, 2017

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The ship left the Port of Dublin late last night and crossed the Irish Sea.  We arrived in Liverpool, United Kingdom early this morning.  The Rotterdam slowly motored up the Mersey River and docked at the Cruise Port in the city.  I was surprised to look out over our balcony and see office buildings and car parks and people walking to work on the quay.

But it was low tide!  There must be 12 to 15 foot tides on the river.  The pier was way way down below and half the wall  of the quay was covered with seaweed.  I could see mud just beyond the bow of the ship.  I wondered how much water the Rotterdam draws.

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We had signed up for an excursion outside Liverpool, so after a light breakfast we went to the theater to join the tour group.  A short time later we were on our way to the Roman town of Chester, about an hour north of Liverpool.  It was nice to see the English countryside: farms, factories, and other industrial parks.  Our guide was Tom Jones who was born in Chester and is very proud of his hometown.

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Chester was settled by the Romans about two thousand years ago and continues to develop over the centuries.  There are ruins of an ancient amphitheater and the original stone wall around the city still exists.

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The city survived through the ages and ravages of wars of the history of Great Britain.   There were many different styles of historical architecture in Chester.

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After we drove around and Tom described the most important sights, we were on our own to explore.  Jeff and I walked to the Roman wall and climbed up the stairs.  It is entirely intact and takes about 45 minutes to walk the entire circle.  We thought it was a better vantage point to take photos of the town.

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There were many Tudor style buildings.  Tom explained that the oldest part of the houses were below grade and over time, the buildings were added on top of the ancient foundations. DSC 3598

We walked around for an hour and a half and took many photos.

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Chester is located about five miles from the Welch border and Tom pointed out the hills of Wales in the distance.  Tom was a good tour guide and even sang the chorus of a Welch song to us before we left the bus.

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We arrived back in Liverpool about 1:30 and Jeff and I were hungry so we walked into town for some pub grub.  Up the street from the wharf, we found the Railway.  The place oozed character, along with a pretty young barmaid with an incomprehensible accent.  We had fish & chips with mushy peas and beef pie with mash (potatoes).  Yummy!

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After lunch, we walked around the newly developed waterfront. There was a summer carnival just beyond the ferry dock which added a festive atmosphere to the piers.  Some of the buildings are large stately and impressive.  There are also many new modern buildings.  Beyond “The Three Graces” historic buildings, is Albert Dock which is a renovated square with shops, bars, and restaurants.

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We were getting tired so we returned to the ship.

Dublin, Ireland

August 23rd, 2017

Wednesday – August 23, 2017

I slept well last night.  Perhaps after 19 days on a ship I’m finally getting used to the sounds and constant movement?  Yesterday, we crossed the English Channel and cruised from the Netherlands, around the southern tip of Great Britain and arrived in Dublin, Ireland early this morning.  The passenger ships sail right up the Liffey River and dock in the commercial port of Dublin.

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I was surprised to look out this morning and see container ships being off loaded by gigantic cranes.  We had another sunny day to explore a new-to-us city.  Perhaps it would have been raining in all the ports we visited on this cruise if I had not brought rain gear and sweaters.  :-)

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Barbara, the location guide, recommended taking a shuttle bus into the center of the city.  She said it was a thirty minute ride.  It turned out to be a forty minute ride but only because of the extremely slow traffic.  The distance to the port was not that far.  We could have walked it in thirty minutes.  As a matter of fact, I could see the modern Samuel Beckett Bridge from our stateroom but we would have had to walk through the busy commercial area of trucks, trains, and construction.  So, it was worth the $20 each fare.

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Riding into the city of Dublin on top of a double decker bus gave us a chance to look around.  Dublin is a very big city with much traffic and a lot of construction.  People were walking to work and there were many tourists all over.  Cars drive on the left and they don’t stop for pedestrians.  The city is a hodge podge of architectural styles, not many high rise buildings, but a lot of pubs.

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The shuttle bus left us off near Merrion Square which was a lovely park.  We passed the rock with a stone statue of Oscar Wilde in a lounging position.  He had lived in the house on the corner for about twenty years of his life.

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Jeff wanted to see the Trinity College Library because he read it had an historic collection in a photogenic space, so we walked a short distance to the college.  We were surprised to see a very long line of people waiting to buy tickets to see The Book of Kells.  We weren’t interested in seeing the book, just the library, but everyone had to purchase tickets to enter the library and see the famous book.  We decided that it wasn’t worth the wait so we continued toward Dublin Castle.

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We didn’t particularly want to visit the castle although it was interesting to see it from the outside.  We wanted to visit the Chester Beaty Library which is next to the castle.  Beaty was an American mining engineer who had amassed a huge collection of books, prints, and manuscripts which he donated to the city of Dublin.  The current exhibition was “The Art of the Book” which displayed ancient hand-made books from around the world.  There was also a special exhibit of the Japanese Art of Friendship: Surimono prints.  These were short poems with illustrations which people exchanged as expressions of friendship.  They were incredibly beautiful.

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Afterwards we walked to the Temple Bar district.  This was a small district of narrow streets and alleyways filled with pubs and restaurants and thousands of tourists!  The buildings were colorfully decorated and the pubs looked very inviting.  It must be a lively neighborhood after dark.  It was one o’clock and we were ready for lunch so we stopped in a pub called the Auld Dubliner.  We chose that one from among the others because the music sounded appealing.  A man played a guitar and was singing Irish songs.  Unfortunately, after a short while he switched to American folk songs and country music.  Maybe he was trying to appeal to the patrons?

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I had a pear cider (Swedish brand – my favorite) and Jeff had a half-pint of Guinness.  Jeff said he didn’t like Guinness beer but had to try it because Barbara said it tasted different in Dublin because it didn’t travel.  I’m not sure of that.  Lunch was much better than expected: beef & Porter pie with real mashed potatoes and Dublin Coddle  which was a thick soup of sausage, bacon, and potatoes.

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On our way back to Merrion Square we stopped to check on the length of the line at Trinity College Library.  It was much shorter than before and moving quickly so we cued up.  Inside there were large panels explaining every detail of the Book of Kells and a relatively small showcase with four manuscripts on display.  Then we climbed up the stairs to the historic library.  It was filled with ancient books of every size from the floor up to the tall ceiling.

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We took photos and walked through with hundreds of other tourists.  It’s amusing to me that people can be enticed to spend money to glance at something, in this case a book, just because it’s famous without any real understanding of its significance.

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We rode the shuttle bus back to the Rotterdam to relax and do a little laundry.  I simply don’t have the stamina I used to have.  It’s hard work to be a tourist!  :-)

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It was a beautiful clear evening.  The ship left for Liverpool late at night.  I thought the green pilot boat was appropriate for the Irish city of Dublin.

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