Liverpool, UK

August 24th, 2017

Thursday – August 24, 2017

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The ship left the Port of Dublin late last night and crossed the Irish Sea.  We arrived in Liverpool, United Kingdom early this morning.  The Rotterdam slowly motored up the Mersey River and docked at the Cruise Port in the city.  I was surprised to look out over our balcony and see office buildings and car parks and people walking to work on the quay.

But it was low tide!  There must be 12 to 15 foot tides on the river.  The pier was way way down below and half the wall  of the quay was covered with seaweed.  I could see mud just beyond the bow of the ship.  I wondered how much water the Rotterdam draws.

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We had signed up for an excursion outside Liverpool, so after a light breakfast we went to the theater to join the tour group.  A short time later we were on our way to the Roman town of Chester, about an hour north of Liverpool.  It was nice to see the English countryside: farms, factories, and other industrial parks.  Our guide was Tom Jones who was born in Chester and is very proud of his hometown.

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Chester was settled by the Romans about two thousand years ago and continues to develop over the centuries.  There are ruins of an ancient amphitheater and the original stone wall around the city still exists.

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The city survived through the ages and ravages of wars of the history of Great Britain.   There were many different styles of historical architecture in Chester.

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After we drove around and Tom described the most important sights, we were on our own to explore.  Jeff and I walked to the Roman wall and climbed up the stairs.  It is entirely intact and takes about 45 minutes to walk the entire circle.  We thought it was a better vantage point to take photos of the town.

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There were many Tudor style buildings.  Tom explained that the oldest part of the houses were below grade and over time, the buildings were added on top of the ancient foundations. DSC 3598

We walked around for an hour and a half and took many photos.

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Chester is located about five miles from the Welch border and Tom pointed out the hills of Wales in the distance.  Tom was a good tour guide and even sang the chorus of a Welch song to us before we left the bus.

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We arrived back in Liverpool about 1:30 and Jeff and I were hungry so we walked into town for some pub grub.  Up the street from the wharf, we found the Railway.  The place oozed character, along with a pretty young barmaid with an incomprehensible accent.  We had fish & chips with mushy peas and beef pie with mash (potatoes).  Yummy!

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After lunch, we walked around the newly developed waterfront. There was a summer carnival just beyond the ferry dock which added a festive atmosphere to the piers.  Some of the buildings are large stately and impressive.  There are also many new modern buildings.  Beyond “The Three Graces” historic buildings, is Albert Dock which is a renovated square with shops, bars, and restaurants.

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We were getting tired so we returned to the ship.

Dublin, Ireland

August 23rd, 2017

Wednesday – August 23, 2017

I slept well last night.  Perhaps after 19 days on a ship I’m finally getting used to the sounds and constant movement?  Yesterday, we crossed the English Channel and cruised from the Netherlands, around the southern tip of Great Britain and arrived in Dublin, Ireland early this morning.  The passenger ships sail right up the Liffey River and dock in the commercial port of Dublin.

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I was surprised to look out this morning and see container ships being off loaded by gigantic cranes.  We had another sunny day to explore a new-to-us city.  Perhaps it would have been raining in all the ports we visited on this cruise if I had not brought rain gear and sweaters.  :-)

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Barbara, the location guide, recommended taking a shuttle bus into the center of the city.  She said it was a thirty minute ride.  It turned out to be a forty minute ride but only because of the extremely slow traffic.  The distance to the port was not that far.  We could have walked it in thirty minutes.  As a matter of fact, I could see the modern Samuel Beckett Bridge from our stateroom but we would have had to walk through the busy commercial area of trucks, trains, and construction.  So, it was worth the $20 each fare.

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Riding into the city of Dublin on top of a double decker bus gave us a chance to look around.  Dublin is a very big city with much traffic and a lot of construction.  People were walking to work and there were many tourists all over.  Cars drive on the left and they don’t stop for pedestrians.  The city is a hodge podge of architectural styles, not many high rise buildings, but a lot of pubs.

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The shuttle bus left us off near Merrion Square which was a lovely park.  We passed the rock with a stone statue of Oscar Wilde in a lounging position.  He had lived in the house on the corner for about twenty years of his life.

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Jeff wanted to see the Trinity College Library because he read it had an historic collection in a photogenic space, so we walked a short distance to the college.  We were surprised to see a very long line of people waiting to buy tickets to see The Book of Kells.  We weren’t interested in seeing the book, just the library, but everyone had to purchase tickets to enter the library and see the famous book.  We decided that it wasn’t worth the wait so we continued toward Dublin Castle.

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We didn’t particularly want to visit the castle although it was interesting to see it from the outside.  We wanted to visit the Chester Beaty Library which is next to the castle.  Beaty was an American mining engineer who had amassed a huge collection of books, prints, and manuscripts which he donated to the city of Dublin.  The current exhibition was “The Art of the Book” which displayed ancient hand-made books from around the world.  There was also a special exhibit of the Japanese Art of Friendship: Surimono prints.  These were short poems with illustrations which people exchanged as expressions of friendship.  They were incredibly beautiful.

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Afterwards we walked to the Temple Bar district.  This was a small district of narrow streets and alleyways filled with pubs and restaurants and thousands of tourists!  The buildings were colorfully decorated and the pubs looked very inviting.  It must be a lively neighborhood after dark.  It was one o’clock and we were ready for lunch so we stopped in a pub called the Auld Dubliner.  We chose that one from among the others because the music sounded appealing.  A man played a guitar and was singing Irish songs.  Unfortunately, after a short while he switched to American folk songs and country music.  Maybe he was trying to appeal to the patrons?

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I had a pear cider (Swedish brand – my favorite) and Jeff had a half-pint of Guinness.  Jeff said he didn’t like Guinness beer but had to try it because Barbara said it tasted different in Dublin because it didn’t travel.  I’m not sure of that.  Lunch was much better than expected: beef & Porter pie with real mashed potatoes and Dublin Coddle  which was a thick soup of sausage, bacon, and potatoes.

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On our way back to Merrion Square we stopped to check on the length of the line at Trinity College Library.  It was much shorter than before and moving quickly so we cued up.  Inside there were large panels explaining every detail of the Book of Kells and a relatively small showcase with four manuscripts on display.  Then we climbed up the stairs to the historic library.  It was filled with ancient books of every size from the floor up to the tall ceiling.

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We took photos and walked through with hundreds of other tourists.  It’s amusing to me that people can be enticed to spend money to glance at something, in this case a book, just because it’s famous without any real understanding of its significance.

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We rode the shuttle bus back to the Rotterdam to relax and do a little laundry.  I simply don’t have the stamina I used to have.  It’s hard work to be a tourist!  :-)

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It was a beautiful clear evening.  The ship left for Liverpool late at night.  I thought the green pilot boat was appropriate for the Irish city of Dublin.

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A Sea Day – Holland to Ireland

August 22nd, 2017

Tuesday – August 22, 2017

We sailed away from Rotterdam, The Netherlands yesterday afternoon and cruised southward along the English Channel between Great Britain and France.  Fortunately, the wind was light and the seas were calm last night.

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Rotterdam marks the end of our eastward cruise and the beginning of the return westbound cruise.  Or, looking at it another way, the midpoint between the circuit.  The first half passed very quickly and there are several exciting ports ahead on our way back to Boston.  We even travel around the northern part of Iceland near the Arctic Circle.

Because we’re heading westward, we had to set our clocks ahead one hour.  Maybe I’ll catch up on lost sleep during several time changes cruising to Europe.  It was a clear day with blue skies.  Ships are passing on both sides of the Rotterdam because we’re in a major shipping channel.

The Irish government sent two officials onboard to stamp our non-EU passports this morning.  Not a bad job.  They fly to Rotterdam, work one morning, enjoy leisure time onboard, and disembark in Dublin.  Similar to the Ice Pilots who rode with us from Greenland to Reykjavik.  I now have an Ireland stamp in my passport in anticipation of going ashore tomorrow in Dublin.

We have a new Captain abroad because the other one retired from active duty in Rotterdam and will have an office job for three months of the year.  The new Captain is Eric van de Wal and he seems happy and excited about his new position.  He’s more visible than the previous captain.  We saw Captain Eric in the Lido smiling and laughing with crew members.

The cruise social director, Jan, packed in lots of activities to keep us from getting too bored today.  There are several lectures we want to attend, also movies, games, art auctions, Casino, gym classes, and live shows tonight.

Lectures today: excursions and sights to see in Dublin, Liverpool, Douglas on the Isle of Mann; Arctic Explorations presented by Dr. Hannesson; and The Other Side of the Moon presented by the meteorologist, Dr. Bendel.

Visiting Rotterdam, The Netherlands

August 21st, 2017

Monday – August 21, 2017

We were docked in the city of Rotterdam for two days to mark the middle of the cruise and load the ship for our return trip to Boston.  Some passengers disembarked this morning and a few more boarded to take their place.  We could have done half the cruise but since the itineraries were different we decided to complete the circle; leave from Boston and return to Boston.  On the way back to North America we’re going to stop at three more towns in northern Iceland and visit another town in Greenland.

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Yesterday we took a one-hour bus ride from Rotterdam to Amsterdam because we wanted to visit the Rijks Museum.  Today we planned to see the city of Rotterdam – our ship’s namesake.

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First we had to get our passports stamped and go through an abbreviated customs procedure.  Afterwards, we took the shuttle bus from our side of the harbor across the Erasmus Bridge over the Maas River to the “Centrum” of Rotterdam.  We stood on the corner and looked around at the buildings and noticed the variety of architectural diversity which surrounded us.  Contemporary architect must have had great fun designing all the multi-purpose “modern” buildings in Rotterdam.

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Down the street were the “Cube Houses” which looked like rectangular prisms stacked and mounted on tall columns. When we approached the Cube Houses we realized we could walk through a center courtyard.  Light streamed in between angles of the rectangles.  One of the houses was open to the public so we paid 2 Euros and climbed the steep stairs into the cube.

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There were three levels: living room/kitchen on the first; bath & bedrooms on the second.  An attic with slanted walls and skylights was on the top floor.  The house was small, modern, and compact with circular stairs, but it seemed like it could be a fun place to live for young people.  Price tag: 250,000 Euros.

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There was a steel structure in the middle of the plaza which looked like a flying saucer.  We discovered that it was the roof of the train station.

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The market was built in the center of the base of an apartment building and painted with huge murals.  The market was a huge food/restaurant center with international restaurants and cafes.  We walked through and around the stalls surprised at the choices: Turkish, Dutch, Japanese, Chinese, Korean, French, Italian, Greek, Thai, Spanish, and Mexican.  I’m not sure how to categorize a “spicy sushi burrito.”  Free Wifi in the market meant that many people (some from our ship) were hanging around staring at their devices.

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The hours passed quickly and we took the shuttle bus back to the ship in time to have a very late lunch.  I tried to post my blog in the ship’s terminal with about a hundred other Wifi deprived seniors.  Unfortunately, it didn’t work so I returned to the ship in plenty of time for our 4:00 sailing.

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Jeff and I went out to the top rear deck for the Cast Away Party to watch the Rotterdam pull away from the dock.  She blared her horn and off we went down the Maas River and out to the Atlantic Ocean.  It took two and a half hours to get beyond the last buoy marking the entrance to the harbor.  We stood for the duration and watched the huge, seemingly endless commercial Port of Rotterdam go by.  We learned it is the third largest commercial port in the world after Singapore and Shanghai.

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I was happy that we explored Rotterdam today.  Several years ago when we were in Holland, we had decided not to see Rotterdam because it was a commercial city.  We had no idea that it was such an appealing and interesting city.  We only scratched the surface of ‘things to see’ so it would be fun to return someday.

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Amsterdam, The Netherlands

August 20th, 2017

Sunday – August 20, 2017

It was a rough ride last night on the ship as it cruised south from Norway to Rotterdam.  The wind was blowing 45 knots and the inky sea churned with large waves topped with whitecaps.  The outside decks were closed to passengers for their safety.  Our stateroom creaked and shook as it rolled side to side.  Walking was a challenge and we had to hold on to railings or walls in order to move around the ship.

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Sometime during the night, the Rotterdam left the wild ocean behind and turned into the calm Maas River. Everything became quiet and serene.  It took several hours for the ship to slowly move up the river to its namesake city: Rotterdam.  This is the half-way point of our cruise. We have traveled 4487 nautical miles from Boston.  Tomorrow afternoon the ship will leave Rotterdam and begin our journey westward back to Boston.

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I awoke at 5:50AM and was surprised that the ship wasn’t swaying.  I had set an alarm for six because we had to catch a 7:30 bus to Amsterdam.  We were ready in plenty of time to board our bus for the hour-long ride to one of our favorite cities.  We had been to Amsterdam twice before and we knew there was a lot to see and do.

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On our last visit, the Rijksmuseum was closed.  It had been closed for major renovation for several years and reopened last year.  The Rijksmuseum is a world class museum on a level with the Louvre or the Metropolitan in NY and I was eager to see it.

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The building looks like a giant castle with ornate turrets and interesting features.  Inside and down one level, there was a central glass covered reception area. The cafe overlooked this area and the gift shop was below.

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We wandered around for a while admiring the collection then went to the Dutch Masters’ galleries.  The museum had a wonderful collection of Rembrandt’s paintings.  It also owns several Vermeers which were on exhibit.

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After we walked around for a couple of hours we were tired and took a coffee break in the cafe.  We realized the weather was sunny and warm so we decided to leave the museum and enjoy the outside.  We took the exit on the other side of the museum to see one of the wonderful Amsterdam canals.  Hundreds, maybe thousands, of people on bicycles were out riding around on a lovely summer day.  There was a busy arts & crafts fair and international food market around a pool.

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We had fun looking around, snacking, and walking through the market.  There were lots of local people and tourists.

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As it approached two o’clock, we went back to the bus stop for the ride back to Rotterdam.  It was a pleasant ride through the countryside.  After resting in the bus, we wanted to see some of Rotterdam, so we walked across the Erasmus Bridge to see what was on the other side.  There were beautiful views of the city and the M. S. Rotterdam, our ship.

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We walked a little way and discovered the outside section of the Rotterdam Maritime Museum.  They had a wonderful collection of antique commercial ships in the harbor which were in excellent restored condition.  The wide variety of ships and boats was amazing!

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Across the harbor there were many large old boats tied to the piers which people lived on.  Further on there was a restored Lightship which was used as a restaurant.

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We discovered a “water taxi” stand and joined a short line of people who were waiting for the next taxi to go to the “New York Hotel.”  We knew this was near our ship so we hopped on.  The young woman driver collected our fare of five Euros each and we sped off down the river.  We learned later that a Water Taxis was the fastest way to get around Rotterdam.

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The DHG Water Taxi depot was near the original restored Holland America Line building which is now the New York Hotel.  The new Cruise Terminal was built up the street from the old building.  The Holland American ships still dock at the same place near their old headquarters.  There was more than a little bit of nostalgia attached to the original building.

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It was a short walk for us to our ship.  We rested up for a while, had dinner, and walked on the top deck to take night pictures.  What a fantastic city Rotterdam is!

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