Ashkabad, Turkmenistan

November 15th, 2014

Saturday, November 15, 2014

DSC_8466Turkmenbashi’s Family Mausoleum

DSC_8479Former President Niyazov’s Personal Mosque

DSC_8488Another View of the $100 Million Dollar Mosque

DSC_8507Cleaning Woman

DSC_8547Walking to the Ancient Parthian Kingdom of Nisa

DSC_8568Listening to Batyr and Gazoul

DSC_8579Excavations

DSC_8539Gazoul and Batyr

DSC_8603Modern Restaurant for Lunch

DSC_8607Turkmenbashi Monument

DSC_8608Top of Monument in Solid Gold

DSC_8618Another Gold Monument

DSC_8618Close-up

IMG_1382View of Ashkabat From the Bus

IMG_1370Indoor Ferris Wheel

IMG_1418National Museum of History and Ethnography

IMG_1422Entrance of Museum

IMG_1425Looking Out to Ashkabat

IMG_1455Night View

IMG_1470The Temple of Happiness

IMG_1489A New Hotel: the Yyldyz Oteli

IMG_1492Space Age Bus Stop

Khiva,Uzbekistan to Turkmenistan

November 14th, 2014

Friday, November 14, 2014     Sunny & 27 degrees F

DSC_8241Morning Light on the Eastern Gate of Khiva

I had missed the tour of the old town of Khiva yesterday, so I was happy to feel better today and participate in the activities. We were scheduled to have a tour of the history museum within the fortress walls then we were free to explore on our own until lunch time. We were directed to meet at another hotel just outside the Western Gate at noon.

DSC_8251Islam Khodja Minaret

DSC_8261Islom Xo’ Ja Madrasah

Our group entered the former Madrasah which now served as the Museum of Applied Arts. There were antique doors, stamps, tables, blankets, costumes, carpets, tiles and other artifacts which demonstrated the high level of local craftsmen and culture.

DSC_8315Inner Courtyard of the Museum

It was Friday and Khiva was bustling with tourists and shoppers. There were many tables set out everywhere with crafts and handmade wares for sale.

DSC_8326Local Shoppers

The group continued to the Pakhlavan Makhmud Mausoleum which is carefully preserved as a national cultural treasure and is a World Heritage Site. It is a religious center formed around the tomb of Khiva’s patron Pahlavan-Mahmud who lived from 1247 until 1326. He was a poet, philosopher and wrestler who was also known as a healer throughout Khiva, Iran, and India.

DSC_8377Entrance to the Mausoleum

The Mausoleum was crowded with families and groups of people who had come to pray, as well as local and foreign tourists. There was also a bridal party with a sizeable entourage.

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DSC_8366Receiving Blessings

DSC_8382Domes and Minarets of Khiva

DSC_8385Unfinished Minaret

DSC_8418Camel for the Tourists

We had a tasty lunch at the Malika Khiva Hotel just outside the Western Gate and then boarded the coach to take us to the Uzbekistan border with Turkmenistan. it was a now-familiar border crossing experience between countries with grim machine-gun armed guards and long waits for visa approvals and stamping our passports. We also had to have our under-arm temperatures taken by a nurse. Then we strolled out of Uzbekistan, crossed the gate toward Turkmenistan, and waited for a mini-van to drive us across the barbed-wired kilometer which separated the countries.

IMG_1228Gazoul in Dashoguz

We were met at the border by our local Turkmen guide Gazoul. The group boarded a modern coach bus and continued to the city of Dasoguz (“Dash-house”) for an early dinner. Afterwards we drove to the airport for our flight to the capital city of Turkmenistan: Ashgabat. The sun was setting but from the bus, the buildings in Dasoguz looked very impressive.

IMG_1246Building in Dasoguz, Turkmenistan

We had expected to be on an eight o’clock flight, however plans changed and we were scheduled to leave closer to midnight. The airport was clean and warm and filled with locals, so time passed relatively quickly. Turkmen women wore different clothes from women of the other ‘Stans and it was interesting to see the new fashion of long skirts and high hairpieces covered with beautiful silk scarves.

IMG_1269On the Way to Ashkabat

Khiva in the Cold

November 13th, 2014

Thursday November 13 2014
27 degrees F. – Sunny

We spent the day riding northwest through the sandy Karakum Desert of Uzbekistan between Bukhara and Khiva. This was one of the historical routes of the caravans of The Silk Road. As our coach undulated and bumped along the poor highway, it was easy to imagine how it must have been riding a camel across the sands a thousand years ago to the oasis of Khiva.

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IMG_1083Modern Silk Road

IMG_1063Nature Stop in the Desert

After many hours, we stopped for a boxed lunch at a ‘tea house’ in the middle of nowhere. It seemed to be a popular rest-stop along the highway for local people as well. Batir and the Uzbek drivers ordered fish from the menu as we ate our prepared cheese sandwiches which were carried from Buhkara.

DSC_8167Roadside Restaurant

IMG_1095Inside the Tea House

IMG_1097My Box Lunch

DSC_8168Shepherd in the Desert

IMG_1152Section of the Original Ancient Wall of Khiva

With the setting sun, we arrived at the walled fortress of Khiva, Uzbekistan. Our hotel was directly across the road from the East Gate pictured below. Batir told us people who were born within the gates were privileged to live within the fortress.  Others had to live outside the walls in newer housing. I dropped off my luggage and went out to take photos in the fading light.

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DSC_8179View From the Hotel

DSC_8193Main Passageway Within the Walls

DSC_8196Old and New

DSC_8213Adobe Houses – Earthen Streets

DSC_8214Otojonboy Madrasasi

DSC_8223Shergozixon Madrasasi 1726

 As daylight faded, I returned to the hotel for dinner and a good night’s rest. Unfortunately, when I awoke the next morning I was a victim of “Timur’s Revenge.” I spent most of the day in my room and missed the tour of Khiva. I emerged later in the afternoon feeling better and had soup for dinner. During the evening meal, we were entertained by a local family who sang and danced regional Uzbeki folk music.IMG_1178

Uzbeki Folk Music and Dance

Last Day in Bukhara, Uzbekistan

November 12th, 2014

November 12, 2014    Bright sunny day – 45 – 55 F.

We met Sasha of Sasha & Son B&B. He told us we were the last guests of the season and the inn would close for the winter after we left tomorrow. After breakfast, our Golden Dragon coach drove us out of the central part of Bukhara to visit the Palace of the Moon and Stars, the summer palace of the last Emir of Bukhara.

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Palace of the Moon and Stars

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Interior:

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Photos of the Last Emir of Bukhara:

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Tourists

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Chor-Minor 1806:

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Back to Bukhara – we went to the USAID-UNESCO Handicraft Development Center near Lyabi-Hauz Plaza to hear several artisans talk about and demonstrate their craftsmanship.

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Afterwards, we walked into one of the alleyways to visit the Jewish community center and synagogue which is the center of religious life for members. The son of the rabbi described the history of the synagogue and told us there were about 250 members. 70,000 Jews have left Uzbekistan since the dissolution of the Soviet Union.

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We had another good Uzbek lunch and celebrated the birthday of one of the members of our tour group with a beautiful cake:

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Then the group had the afternoon free to explore Bukhara on our own. We had a great time shopping!

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Sunset in Bukhara:

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Bukhara (Buxoro) in the Sunshine

November 11th, 2014

Monday, November 10, 2014

DSC_7652Bukhara in the Sunshine

DSC_7496Nodir Devon Begi Medressa 1622

DSC_7511Interior Courtyard of the Medressa

DSC_7530Family

DSC_7550Beautiful Bukhara

DSC_7557Another Medressa

DSC_7581Historic Building

DSC_7588Ruins of a Caravanserai and Bath House (18th C.)

DSC_7633Chai and Tavloo

DSC_7628Carpet Shop

DSC_7654Abdul Azizxon Madrassa 1652

DSC_7655Interior

DSC_7551Friendly Camel

DSC_7680Madressa

DSC_7724Courtyard

DSC_7693Seller

DSC_7756Alleyway

DSC_7751Donkey Cart

DSC_7763Entrance to Prison

DSC_7779Exterior of Prison

DSC_7793Removing Meat From a Tandoor

DSC_7803Restaurant Complex

DSC_7812Walking Through an Amusement Park

DSC_7818Ismail Samani Mausoleum – 905 AD

DSC_7824Interior of the Mausoleum

DSC_7833Looking Across Samani Park

DSC_7844Bolo-Hauz Mosque – 1712

DSC_7904The Ark

DSC_7855Entrance to the Ark

DSC_7871Within the Ark

DSC_7877Detail

IMG_0930Making Plov in a Tandoor

IMG_0926Plov With Quail Eggs

IMG_0944Hostess and Her Daughter in the Kitchen

IMG_0920Tourist Sign on the Street